St Elias
Today we document the remains of a forgotten Monastery connected to the Orthodox Church, found in a remote corner of Northern Alberta. Deep in a wooded grove along a lonely back road, this unassuming cluster of small cobbled-together buildings are in varying states of advanced decay and most likely won’t be around for much longer. Accompanied by photographer Robert Pohl, we take time to explore this most fascinating site, on his suggestion (and a good one it is), imagining the incredible sacrifices, the steadfast dedication and humble lifestyle of those who once lived here.
In order to protect this property from troubled types, we’re going to be a bit vague in regards to locations and such when speaking of it.
You’ll see us also use the term Hermitage and/or Skete in reference to the Monastery. This reflects different naming conventions found within the varied research materials used when compiling this article. For all intents and purposes however, the three mean pretty much the same thing, a Monastic type community whose members lead a simple existence, forgo most material possessions and practise their religion in general isolation. The word Hermit, a person who lives in seclusion, comes from Hermitage.
The Monastery was founded in the early 1950s as the Hermitage, or Skete, of Prophet (sometimes Saint) Elias. The handful of members residing here were of Ukrainian background and were tied to the Russo-Greek Orthodox Church, an arm of Christianity common to Eastern Europe and much of the former Soviet Union. Many settlers in this part of Alberta immigrated from Ukraine, so this these types of churches are rather ubiquitous to the area. Every town, it seems, has an Orthodox Church, with their distinctive “onion’ domes.
The Monks survived by farming a section of land, rather low lying and almost swamp-like in nature, just to the north of the site. It must have been hard going. But of course in a Monk’s lifestyle nothing is easy, so it seems fitting they toiled on land that others would have deemed worthless.
As time passes, the population of the Monastery dwindled, the last member leaving in the early 1960s. Ever since then the site had been abandoned, although in recent years a new incarnation of the same order has formed. Members of St Elias today lead lifestyles much less detached from the outside world than before and might be found living in a house or apartment, driving cars and even using social media. None the less, they follow strict disciplines and focus all their energies on beliefs. They don’t eschew mainstream society anymore, but keep near its fringes. The stereotype of the hooded monk, lost in quiet contemplation, they are not.
The Monastery site includes perhaps a half dozen structures, all rather small and simple in construction. Some were living quarters, some used communally, a cooking area for example. Others might have been devoted to their farming endeavours (a chicken coop maybe?). One building or perhaps one room within a building, would have acted as a chapel of sorts and was devoted to prayer, mediation and those sorts of activities.
Reflecting the vow-of-poverty nature of the Monastic lifestyle, all structures were built using what ever could be found or scrounged up. Walls were made of salvaged lumber or logs and branches. Interiors were mud and straw with a thick coating of white-washed plaster (a common way to do in the old country by the way). Doors and windows appear salvaged too, the former being cut or trimmed to fit the often odd-shaped opening it was placed in. Not being carpenters, nothing is square or even remotely level, but again, I’m not sure that mattered much to those who built them. A simple life means simple things. Plain and, well, simple.
Still, the effect, especially inside the shacks (let’s call them what they are) is very Dr Suess like, with all the walls at odd angles to each other, not because of settling or collapse but that they were built that way! It’s also rather charming.
An old wood spool for thread, metal bottle cap and nail make an ersatz door knob. Other building materials used include cardboard, newspaper, shingles, chicken wire, old wood boxes, moss (for insulation?) and various metal strips and angle iron taken from old machinery. In other words, they used what ever they could find. Buildings were heated by wood or perhaps coal, and lit by lantern.
Outside a stove or two, some simple tables and some other small miscellaneous bits and pieces, the buildings are for the most part empty.
Given the “budgetary” building methods and all the organic material used in their construction, the structures here have not fared well since being abandoned. Some have partially collapsed, while others are close to doing the same. A thick grove of trees has sprouted up all around the site, the buildings almost becoming lost in them (especially when they green up). In couple years I doubt there will be much anything left but the forest.
The piano seen? Perhaps it’s a strange offering of sorts from someone? A prank leading to some weird legend? No one is quite sure. It was built by maker Morris Piano Company in Ontario. The serial number seems to suggest, based on the limited data we could find, that it’s an oldie, dating back to the first decade of the twentieth century. Exposed to the elements as it is, it’s of course in pretty rough shape. Recent report mention that it’s fallen over on the wood fully rotting through. It’s a fairly new arrival, coming here in the last few years. Oddly, it seems to move around between visits too.
The Orthodox Church dates to medieval times, but has roots going back much further. In North America it was founded several centuries ago, by Russian Missionaries in Alaska, and today encompasses roughly seven hundred Parishes/Missions/Monasteries on the continent. It’s one of the largest religions in the Christian World, although not highly followed in Canada as a whole. It is however rather dominate in this part of Alberta and select areas of Saskatchewan too.
Orthodox clergy wear a distinctive style of dress and the churches themselves are quite unique in appearance. Monasticism, the becoming of a Monk, is common to the religion.
Prophet Elias (sometimes spelled Elijah, alternately with Saint in his title or sometimes with the addition of Glorious) was said to be a performer of miracles, an advocate of the poor and provider of needy with food. Dating back to the ninth century, he’s a significant figure in Orthodoxy and many churches and religious sites carry his name. In iconography he’s shown riding a chariot towards heaven.
Our gracious host and guide this trip, Robert Pohl, is master photographer based out of Edmonton. It’s his part of the world and he took us on a tour. His main area of interest is large format film photography. His daughter accompanied us and is no slouch with a camera either, proving it must run in the family. His site: Robert S Pohl…photographs, travels and stuff.
Places of worship…
Hillhurst United Church (Stained Glass!)
Spaca Moskalyk Church (Orthodox with “onion” domes).
Notre Dame de Savoie Church (near falling down).
If you wish more information on what you’ve seen here, by all means contact us!
Date: March, 2016.
Location: Smoky Lake County, AB.
Article references and thanks: Father Power, Orthodox Church in America, Rob Pohl.
BIGDoer.com visited this site with permission.
I was recently at the monastery (September 25, 2020). I can confirm that the piano is lying on its back on the ground. I thought someone pushed it over so my wife and I tried to gently lift it back up but we immediately noticed that it has rotted badly. By the spring it may be just a pile of old wood. The other buildings are doing better than one would expect given the exposure to nature. Somebody has placed a geocache near the site so it’s going to have more people visiting it. That’s unfortunate as some things should remain hidden in the forest.
Thanks for the update Glen, and apologies in how long the response – busy beyond belief. Even when we saw the piano some years back, we knew it was not long for this world. A Geocache will make it busier and given the fragile state of the place, we agree, it might not be such a good thing. Appreciate you commenting.
Found this gem recently while exploring Kubassa canyon. I’ve been driving this Hwy for 40 years to my family’s summer cottage and. We were blown away by the history the backroads have to share.
That canyon name is epic and we’re currently looking it up. There is so much history about if one only takes the time to explore.
I am very familiar with this location and remember the monks.
A beautiful piece of history. Thank you for posting.
Cool! It was our pleasure to share this adventure with you.
Great pictures!
Thank you very much.
Must of been fun for those who carried it out there.
I know! It would take a few burly guys for sure.
such an interesting story that went with this series of pictures.
Thank you for taking the time to read the post and comment. We love that!
What a find! You two really are off the beaten path!
It is what we do, going where others don’t.
This is really interesting. Didn’t know it existed. The old church at Dunvegan is a great place to look around too. This must have been a tough place to be in the winter.
It’s little known, tucked away in the woods, down some little used road. Winter’s must have been brutal. We’ll try and check out that church.
Yes, and horsehair plaster on the walls, newspapers or magazines for insulation; my Mom said her Dad would patch broken window glass with buttons?
And it looked like they used straw for insulation too. It’s amazing what can be constructed on a budget.
I’ve been here about 5-6 years ago, tucked away in the trees and off the beaten path.
Off the beaten path? We like it and should use it! It really is a special place.
Love this spot! Always wondered what it is. I surmised at the piano before reading the article and seeing where this was. I have been here a couple times, but not for several years. There was never a piano here, that I recall. So, my guess is that someone dumped it there. Thanks for sharing this and for finally letting me know the history!
You’re welcome! Yes, it only showed up a few years back. Why of course, is the big question.
Striking photos. Sad and yet…..letting the wood go back from whence it came. I ivory and ebony not so much…..but at least they’re all together. ❤️
Lovely. Back to the earth for it, like all things and people eventually.
Neat find!
Wonder what the story behind (the piano) is.
Thanks. No back story there – and we’re all so curious. It’s since fallen over we just found out.
Did u see if it worked lol
Keys are jammed. It’s had been out in the elements for too long.
What an amazing place that was.
So lucky we got to explore it.
Hauntingly beautiful.
That’s exactly the mood there.
Now played by a snowman. Melton John.
Groan…
Lots to ponder in this piece… thanks for sharing the story and photos of this most interesting place.
So pleased to hear you like it.
A little murphys oil soap will fix that thing right up…
And some duct tape…
I wonder if any of the keys still work….and if so, if birds or squirrels or some other life fomrs may make a little “music” if they happen along the keys.
Music in the woods!
Pianos are such mysterious instruments. They’re almost human in their complexity, and their sound encompasses so many emotions. I love the idea of old pianos being released back into the wild, to die with dignity.
Love this!
Well no one seems to want old pianos anymore so this could be the result of that…
Interesting. Another person who commented touched on that. Perhaps that’s how this one came to being here.
Thanks for sharing so interesting!
You are most welcome!
It is sad people from the past paid so much for piano’s and were charished items for years in homes through multi generations. But they are big and heavy and as we are craming people into less space an electric keyboard will work. I see them go at auctions for very little so it doesn’t surprise me to see one dumped. Still have a piano in a couple of my houses, can’t play one though, such well built pieces.
Yes, you hit the nail on the head. They’re not revered as they used to be.
Quite a conversation piece for those who stumble across it.
Indeed!
For all the hardships a person can endure – I just can’t fathom this in the winter time. Love the shots 🙂
These Monks must have been a tough breed. To live such a simple life, in such primitive conditions and through all kinds of weather speaks of their resolve. It always pleases us to hear that you’re enjoying our work.
It’s amazing how many old monasteries there are in north east Alberta, including some that are still in use. It really is like old Europe up there. I will have a look at this one someday and I’ll send you the coordinates for another one. I enjoyed your images as this was an interesting blog to read (in part because it is finally closer to Edmonton than Calgary, lol).
I’ve heard of others too. We were in Spain – the reason for the delay in responding – sorry – and saw many old monasteries, some still in use. One was close to 1000 years old. Glad you like what we do. Keep the fine photos coming yourself. Love your work.
Very cool. Guess when you’re that small, and that far from anything, you use what you have on hand.
And here, they did. Never seen such a variety of odd building materials.
Hello! I am Archimandrite (Abbot) Gerasim (Power) – The current and 3rd abbot of this monastic establishment. Although I and my brethren do not live at that old sight, we still retain the spirit of monasticism including our monastic habit, and the vows of poverty, chastity, obedience and stability of place. The current location of our hermitage is about 20 mins. from the old sight, though my other brethren do live also in other locales. (I myself keep the fort here at the hermitage.) If anyone would like more info on St. Elias Orthodox Hermitage, here is the wesite link with a bit of history, past and present. https://oca.org/parishes/oca-ca-dibhpe
Thanks for helping add to the story Father Power (recall we spoke), via that link. It’s so interesting that your group is still around and has adapted to the modern world. I bet it would come as a surprise to many. Fascinating!
I lived in my early years a short distance away from this monastery and I can remember 2 monks that lived there. ( I think there were 3 altogether.) One was known as the “crippled monk” and my memory of him is vague, but according to my mother he was the one that baptized me in the nearby Dickiebush Russo Orthodox Church in the 50’s. The other younger monk was a frequent visitor to our place, always taking a shortcut across the fields that separated our houses instead of walking the long way by road.
Amazing! So very cool to hear from someone with such an intimate connection to it. This was one of the most interesting place we’ve ever visited. Thanks, you made our morning!
Beautiful pictures and what an interesting history.
Thank you, we’re glad you enjoyed visiting it with us.
Lovely, and great composition on those photos.
Thanks, we never claim to be photographers, but sometimes even we get it right.
Northern Alberta has some great abandoned sites.
It does and I’d love to get up that way more often.
I love this, very peaceful and beautiful.
It was both!
(via Facebook)
I saw this last winter on my way to a pipeline site in my work truck, nice to know some background on what it was. Really neat place.
Happy you know now something about it. Thanks for commenting.
Shared to Ghost Town Hunters.
Saw that spike in traffic…
Wow a piano sitting outside. What a shame. Interesting story.
The piano sure makes it surreal. Oh yeah, the place has an interesting history!
Beautiful. I used to live in Smoky Lake, as well as Willingdon /Vegreville. I loved visiting the old houses, farmsteads, churches and graveyards.
The area is nice for exploration. Love it there.
Neat
A person of few words. Thanks for commenting!
Once a more. Thank you for continuing to record our history, before its demolished, or returns to the soil. Cheers!
It’s our mission in life.
(via Facebook)
I see they hold outdoor concerts.
I think it needs a little tuning.
So interesting!
One of the more so, we’ve seen in some time. Loved it.
Wow! What a place, I couldn’t imagine living like that! And to think we thought Comery was a lonely place!
It’s not quite as remote as Comrey, but is still a lonely and isolated place. I guess that’s what Monks look for however.