España Day 4: Scruffy Peregrino

Having just started the El Camino de Santiago Trail your author’s already looking the part of the Scruffy Perigino. These strange growths on this ugly mug, wire like bristles stiff as though a BBQ brush, that some months can come in fast and thick – as it did during this trip – and at other times shaving’s done every few weeks or so. And the stuff’s always pure white and patchy. But hey, that’s the look on the trail and appearances need to kept up. And I wasn’t the only one looking a tad bedraggled.

Day four in Spain, but day one of our epic El Camino Adventure. We’re here to walk this most legendary route…because we can.

Our destination many days away is Santiago de Compostela (or simply Santiago) and mass at the amazing cathedral there. If that’s not reason enough to do it. Today’s itinerary has us doing a section of the El Camino, which happens to be the pilgrim’s route to Santiago, and we’re doing the pilgrim thing, and links Foncebadon to Molinaseca. Some twenty or twenty five clicks will be done over the day, with stops along the way for refreshments and lunch. Easy-peasy stuff. And when we’re finished this walk the week following we’ll have put one hundred and twenty clicks (give or take) behind us and have earned a “Compostela”, a Pilgrim’s Certificate. We’ll have made it in other words. This day’s trek has us taking in one of the more hilly sections of the trail where we’ll visit the highest point along the El Camino in Spain. Let’s go!

1) In Castrillo de los Polvazare, a warm up walk before we hit the trail, this old VW Micro Bus Pickup (officially a “Type 2 Transporter”). This is a late 1960s or early 1970s example. We saw so few old cars in Spain so this was a special find. We did spot an old Triumph a bit earlier, but we didn’t want to bore you with our old car obsession. We emails you know.

1) VW Micro Bus!

Here’s were in the centre of town on a quiet morning, a most charming scene. These narrow streets are a Spanish thing as you’ll see as this series progresses. Castrillo dates back to the Roman Times but most of the buildings today are only couple hundred years old.

2) Coffee shop stop and a briefing. In mere moments we’ll be on our way. And other there a very cool Spanish-made “Lube” Motorcycle. The firm closed in the 1960s.

3) Not more than a few minutes in, there’s views like this. The trail here, a wide dirt track, makes a line for a ridge top where in mere minutes we’ll see the first in what would be an endless parade of places and things of special wonder.

4) Grant and Trina, with which this trip would not be possible, and the Team. We climb and chat and chat and climb. They’ve done the El Camino before.

5) At the highest point this here little stone church. Days earlier we toured impressive cathedrals and now it’s a humble little house of worship. Churches would be an ongoing theme this visit and we’d revel in shooting as many as we could.

6-7) At the “Iron Cross” or Cruz de Ferro, atop a tall wood pole. At the base a massive pile of stones placed here by pilgrims over the years. It’s tradition to bring one from where ever you call home and add it to the heap. And at the same time say a prayer or two for loved ones or someone in need. We placed a heart shaped rock we brought in from the Alberta Foothills and stood there in silence for a moment. It was a busy place but we managed to find solace for a moment. Some folks drive up here. It’s said there’s been a cross on this spot for close on a thousand years. The El Camino Trail has been in use for eons.

8) The trail has many personalities. Sometimes it’s a dirt track, as seen here, sometimes it’s beside a road, but this wasn’t a busy one so no big deal in this case, and other times it’s alone and by itself in the countryside. In places it is the road, typically quiet country lanes with little traffic. It passes through pastoral wilderness, so many little villages with their narrow streets and occasionally may parallel a busy roadway, but rarely for long.

9) Here the going is easy and the views stupendous. Our little group has now spread out along the trail – we’ll all meet later for lunch – and at times, it was just Connie and I and the wind. It’s a busy trail yet we often had it to ourselves for a stretch.

10-12) Manjarín Encomienda Templaria, home of the last Templar Knight. There’s an odd fellow here, Tomas, a legendary character along the trail who insists he follows traditions of the old order. Sure, it’s all self proclaimed, but he seems honest in his convictions and that counts for something. He resides in a run down farm house, crazily decorated, with ducks and chickens freely wandering about; and pilgrims are invited in to chat, share a beer, or maybe purchase a little nick-knack. He makes his only income from his little bar/curiosity shop and seems to be a stop no one passes by.

Some think Tomas crazy, others enlightened. He was a bit shy on our visit and ducked into his hacienda for privacy on our visit. Guess he’s sometimes like that. Once in a while pilgrims are invited to spend the night in his makeshift “Albergue” (Hostel) and share a meal. What an experience that’d would be.

The Templars, a thousand years ago, were said to have protected pilgrims who travelled the El Camino. Guess he sees himself doing the same thing in a way.

13) This view, amidst rolling hills and cow pastures. On the gentle wind, the sound of Moo-moos. Notice the snow on the highest point back there. I guess the white stuff can fall on these hills come winter. It was definitely cooler up this high than it was when we started.

14) A little trailer that serves beer and snacks? It might not be a Boler, but in spirit is close. And did I say beer? That’s the fastest click we ever walked. Estrella Galacia – four please!

2) At a coffee stop, this “Lube”.

15) Occasionally there would be sections like this, with loose stuff underfoot. We heard tell that more than a few walkers have come away here with a twisted ankle. If it were to happen you can call a cab to come get you as the road is never far away. Our touring company had a shuttle van for that same purpose too. Just in case.

16) The grade eases for a time. And all those colourful plants and flowers. We’re maybe half way done for the day and we’re feeling fine. Firing on all cylinders, loving the scenery, loving the company, loving the adventure. No matter your religious affiliation, even if you have none at all like your author, the El Camino Trail is something quite spiritual and each pilgrim experiences in their own special way. Some are quiet and in deep contemplation where as most seem to celebrate it loudly. It a long always on the move party…and everyone’s invited!

17) A stupendous view. Later the trail would take in the lowlands, but here, it’s tall hills and ridges and a real wilderness vibe. This is our style of vacay.

18) Dropping down into El Acebo (or El Acebo de San Miguel), a quaint little village where we’d have lunch. These meal stops were prearranged and is where our group would collect to socialize and down copious amount of food and locally produced wine. Lunch is a couple hour affair and each day was like this.

19) Narrow streets like this challenge those in cars, as we’d find out later in our Spanish adventure, but for a walking tour, they’re intimate and a delight. Once in a while a local would pop out and give the greeting “Buen Camino!” (Good Way!). Houses here, as most old ones in Spain, are constructed of stone and many were built hundreds of years ago. It seems to strange to us given the oldest things out our way are rarely more than a century in age. Canada’s so new.

20) Every once in a while, usually in the middle of nowhere, there would be a little self serve snackie type place like. Payment is by honour system and it seems to work. But then again most people are making a spiritual experience of the El Camino which I guess brings out the honest in them.

21) There’s a huge number of junctions along the El Camino de Santiago Trail but yellow arrows like this will keep you on the proper heading. The trail is also called the The Way or The Way of Saint James and has been a pilgrimage route for well over a thousand years. Saint James is connected to the Cathedral in Santigo de Compostela, the destination of most El Camino Pilgrims (a few continue on to the ocean). The arrows were originally painted in the 1980s and have come to be a symbol for the trek.

22) With each click more and more elevation is lost.

23) A disused line pole with insulators. Nothing much really, but we find it interesting. Strange things captivate us.

24) Passing through these hills it feels very remote, more so than on any other part of the trail. Mostly the villages come frequently, but here, it’s nature and hills and this dirt path.

25) Looking the part with wire brush stubble. Peregrino = Pilgrim, the name given all walkers of the El Camino no matter their personal reason for doing it. You’ll note we use the name El Camino and El Camino de Santiago in a seemingly random fashion when speaking of the trail. Both terms are perfectly acceptable and we mix it up, ’cause hey, we can. We had some caps made up for the trip – BIGDoer.com, amor y España 2018.

26) At major junctions there’s one of these concrete markers to keep you on track. The shell is a second symbol for the trail and it’s tradition for pilgrims today to attached one to their clothing or pack when starting out. The radiating lines on it represent the many routes or ways a pilgrim can take on their journey to Santiago de Compostela (there’s a number of El Camino Branches) and symbolically is used as a vessel for the drinking of water. Many towns have a public fountain for just this purpose.

27) A graffiti marked sign announcing our arrival in the town that will be our base for the night. We’ve got a nice little hotel room booked but many people stay in hostels. Near every village or town has one and they’re generally quite cheap. Molinaseca is a charming village, but that could be said of every one we’d visit in Spain. There’s something in the water here.

28) The town’s just around the corner. Crosses randomly appear along the trail.

29) A fine old church. Every town, no matter how small, has one and all are beautiful. They take their religion seriously here. Almost every church we’d see was made of stone like this. The architecture in Spain was amazing.

3) Minutes in on the El Camino de Santiago, this view.

30) This bridge dates back to Roman times and is probably the oldest one we’d ever cross. It’s called (naturally) the “Bridge of Pilgrims”. Below the sounds of people frolicking in the river. Laughter and sequels of joy and a nice introduction to a town we’d call home for the night. Spain seems so…alive.

31) Some up and over sections of the El Camino can be used by pilgrims on horseback. We’d run into more the next day. Sitting at a small bar, enjoying a cold one (and dirt cheap too) while snacking on some Iberico Ham (complimentary with the drinks) and chatting with a new found friend, that fellow on the left side of the frame. He spoke limited English and us severely broken Spanish, but we made it work. He told us if we’re ever back in Molinaseca we’ve got an invite to drop by for dinner. We bumped into so many cheery folks like this, open and cheery, pleased to meet you and just happy to be. It’s infectious.

32) In the town square, the Pilgrim. We’d seem him many times, in many towns. Notice the shells which we spoke of their significance before.

33) Some gummies, a drug of choice, while watching the World Cup. Every TV in Spain tunes in like here in Canada we do for hockey. What a great way to wind down. Can’t fight the sleep. Good night Spain. We’ll see you tomorrow.

There’s a continental breakie on waking then it’s a quick drive to our starting point where we’ll do it all again as we did this day. It’ll be a another up and over a good sized ridge with scenic views and lot of hard work ahead. And food, amazing food, historic structures, new friends and loved ones, and that warm buzz of having drunk far too much wine. This most amazing country made all the better with wine-googles on (I’m kidding).

There’s this most palpable feeling that you’re doing something meaningful on walking the El Camino even if for many pilgrims it’s not fully understood the reasons why. Like it was for us. Sure, you do it because it’s there and fun and in our case because someone else paid for it but there’s more I can’t put a finger on. As we discovered it’ll move you in strange and unexpected ways. No gruellingly task these many days of labour, even if a lot of work, and a pure on euphoria, and hope and love, while examining what you are as a person deep inside. And maybe just maybe at the end you’ll be better for it. It’s this strange journey of self on the other side of the world.

Till then.

So far…
Off The Beaten Path en España – touching down in Spain.
España Day 1 – Wandering Madrid – getting to know the city.
España Day 2 – Toledo Cathedral – the most impressive yet.
España Day 3 – Hello Astorga – the last stop before the El Camino.
España Day 5 – Up & Over – joy and love…
España Day 6 – Buen Camino – as though in a dream.
España Day 7: Lost & Loving It – don’t want it to end.
España Day 8: Walking the Cows – things seen and passed.
España Day 9-10: Santiago! – a chapter closed.
España Day 10: Evening in O Pindo – Peregrinos no more.
España Day 11: Porto de Quilmas – a “lazy” day.
España Day 12: Cabo Finisterre/Fisterra – the end of the world.
España Day 13: A Taste of Portugal – one final day.

Hikes at home…
Moose Mountain.
South End of Lawson.

If you wish more information on what you’ve seen here, by all means contact us!

Date: June, 2018.
Location: Castile and León Spain.
Article references and thanks: Paul & Paul Walks in Spain, Katrina & Grant LaRocque.

4) The four amigos.

5) The little church at a high point.

6) Cruz de Ferro or the “Iron Cross”.

7) It’s tradition to leave a stone.

8) Here the trail parallels a road.

9) It then keeps to the top of ridge.

10) A strange place ahead.

11) Inside, we looks for Tomas, the last Templar.

12) And his domain.

13) Amidst rolling hills and pastures.

14) Ahead, the little trailer that serves cold beer.

15) Ankle-twisting stuff here.

16) A most pleasant section.

17) And these sweeping vistas.

18) Dropping down into “El Acebo”.

19) Quaint streets and lunch awaits ahead.

20) Drinks and snacks on the honour system.

21) Countless yellow arrows mark “The Way”.

22) Dropping down further.

23) The strangest things interest us.

24) Of all the sections this one feels the most remote.

25) The Scruffy Peregrino.

26) At most junctions there’ll be one of these.

27) Molinaseca, where we’ll bed down for the night.

28) A click or two to go.

29) So many churches, so little time.

30) Perhaps the oldest bridge we’ll ever cross.

31) Horses are allowed on some sections of the El Camino.

32) The pilgrim.

33) A little soccer on the tube and a snack.