España Day 5: Up & Over

Dawn arrives clear and cool and we’re already wide awake in giddy anticipation of the day to come. It’ll be wonderful….we just know it…friends, we can feel it in our bones. Team BIGDoer is in Spain, a most amazing country, we’re trekking the legendary El Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage Trail and we’re super stoked to put more clicks behind us. It’s day two on the trail and we’ve got many, many more to go to reach our destination…and maybe enlightenment. It’s spiritual experience no matter your leanings.

First it’s breakfast – we eat well while here, a little too well in fact. Then it’s a scenic drive to the trailhead – we’re on a guided tour and we’re spoiled rotten…and feel a little guilty too. Anyhow, this trip takes in only the “best bits” of the El Camino, as they say on the Walks in Spain website. Even if we have a support team at our disposal, however, still we work it good and hard and in the end earn our Compostela, or certificate of completion awarded on reaching the Cathedral in Santiago. You need to sweat to get it. Ready? Okay, let’s go!

1) Botillo del Bierzo, an intestine stuffed with the odds and ends left over from the butchering of the pig, that’s then smoked. It’s a local delicacy in the area. Can’t say we found the idea appealing, still we would have tried it had it been offered. In front to the Hotel de Floriana in Molinaseca, our “crash pad” for the previous night. What a dump.

2) At a coffee stop just before we walk – goodness I could get used to this – this here old washing machine. We’ve heard a number of sources say it’s the most photographed thing on the El Camino Trail but oddly a Google search turns up little on it. Hmmmm. Later we’d go looking for a working one.

3) On the ground in La Faba, one of many small villages we’d pass through, each and every one charming and scenic and the people welcoming and friendly.

4) We’d see many farm cats while on this trek and many like this here puss were friendly and came running to say hi. And all were small as kittens.

1) An homage to a local “delicacy”.

5) A farmer uses the trail to reach his fields. Most of the time it’s multi-use like this, part path, part farm access road or country lane. Some sections we didn’t hike can be beside busy highways. That’s where a guided tour comes in handy.

6) As we gain elevation the views open up. This is one of the more rugged sections of the trail we’d visit. And with the previous day, the most mountainous. In days to come, the land at worst was rolling hills. Easy as tarta.

7) A steep section, probably one that’d be slick if wet. But it was hot and dry this day. Connie chats up another Peregrino. Some times we’d have company like this and other times the place was ours alone. Our group was well spread out at this point with us bringing up the rear as usual. We’re almost always the slowest.

8) Lame artsy flower pic! These were everywhere along this section.

9) The trail often borders on fields and pasture and more often than not, the fences were of stone. Or partially so. Nice scenery, eh?

10) This had to be one of the newest buildings we saw. It was not odd to see date stones going back one hundred, two hundred or even five hundred years. In a little village called La Laguna. Coffee Stop! The stuff here is strong and dark and gets you buzzing. Now the stuff from 7-11 tastes like water.

11) A steep push. And the temperature’s rising. Thanks goodness we’ll top out before the heat gets too overpowering. Plus 25c and we’re struggling. Under, no problem at all. Ahead, that’s a purple pack!

12) There’s markers at every junction…and arrows, yellow arrows, everywhere. To get lost here you’d have to work at it. And many markers carry location info, in case you get in trouble and need to call for back up. There’s taxi’s that serve the trail picking up those who can’t continue – our guides were available to the same for our group.

13) We’d not see many mountains this year (it’s complicated) but these were the most memorable. We just stood there for a moment and soaked it up. And fell further behind our group.

14) Leaving Castile & León and enter Galicia (autonomous communities – or a grouping of provinces). Graffiti is commonly seen. Most of it seems positive in nature, words of encouragement to pilgrims in many languages, prayers for loves ones, memorials to those gone, so it seems to be tolerated. Make of it what you will.

15) Here along a stone wall the trail levels off. And there’s shade. Sweet, sweet shade. For that last push there was none.

16) On certain up and over sections of the El Camino horses are allowed.

17) At a pass between two mountains, we enter O Cebreiro an historic little town. Here we’d take a break from the trail for a moment or two and wander about. In our excitement, we’d forgot to break out the cameras time and again. Caught up in it all!

18) Place a coin and say a prayer. This statue is new as there seems to be zero information on it online. And it doesn’t show up on Google Streetview, which went past here in 2012.

19) Lots of shops, bars and cafes here. And it was busy this day, many people choosing to drive up to the spot. Coffee Stop! And we’re still wired from the last cup in that other village!

20-21) This house of worship (Church of Santa Maria, sometimes Church of St. Benedict) dates back over a thousand years and is said to be the oldest along the El Camino Trail. It’s the site of “The Eucharistic miracle of O Cebreiro”, where long ago during a ceremony wine was turned to blood in a challis, something today called the Galician “Holy Grail”. Had we more time…

2) That reminds us…

22) Letting some riders pass. A new section of the trail here, it joins the road for a moment before heading up into the trees. Before it travelled higher above.

23) It’s a ridge walk of sorts, the trail taking a line not far below a long broad summit. It meanders here and there in the woods and is a most pleasant section with nice views where the trees thin.

3) On the trail at La Faba.

24) With villages being only a couple clicks apart, we pass many each day. Here’s the cemetery in little Liñares. Not matter the size of the place, they have a church and a spot for burials. Graves can be quite elaborate. In back on the hill, signs of a quarry. But only we would notice that.

And every towns has a bar and cafe (and often a store too) and Liñares was no exception. A cold one on the trail goes down real well. We stop as often as often as we move. But hey, it’s how we do it.

25) Interior of The Church of San Esteban in Liñares. It’s one of the oldest on the trail and certainly the most humble. Typically the Catholic Churches we’d visit were rather ornate, it seems to be how they roll here, but this one was plain and simply decorated. By the way, in every church we visit a small donation is made. And a is prayer said…for someone we know, the world in general or maybe the next pilgrim to visit. We all could use the help. Pass it along.

26) A lazy afternoon, the chickens are not the least bit concerned with the dog. He’s not moving for anyone!

27) The Pilgrim at Alto de San Roque bracing against the wind. It can get nasty up here at this mountain pass and even snow is not unheard of at times. Looking online you see reports speaking of the sometimes challenging weather that can appear suddenly. The statute dates back to the 1990s. Nice views all around.

28) Just loving this section, high above surrounding valleys, little villages below, rolling hills, fields and meadows of flower. This is bliss.

29) This town was named after a Pilgrim’s Hospital that once operated here (long gone). Now they stop here for a meal (we did). Seventy K on the highway – there was little traffic seen. Roads in Spain struck as more, well, relaxed.

30) Like all the villages seen, Hospital was so charming. And this frustration hit us, knowing we could never capture all the wonders we’d see. For every picture here, we had to toss some so as not to have this post grow too big.

31) O Tear, a most enjoyable meal ahead. There’s fresh Trout, home made loaves and bottle after bottle of wine made in the back room over there. The meal, the experience, good conversation with fellow travellers in our group, all who manged to arrive within minutes of each other here, and a couple hours later we look in surprise at the time that’s passed. Where did it go?

The trail beckons, we step out into the sun all warm and fuzzy – ooooo, that wonderful red elixir – and a maybe little unsteady. More adventure awaits. Some call it a day here however and ride back to the hotel.

32) Our guides recommends we leapfrog ahead and bypass an unpleasant section of the trail that stays close to the road. The two Pauls are in the know. Soon in we rejoin the trail and start dropping down, a most enjoyable section that seems oddly quiet when compared to other parts we’ve been today.

33) Showing “The Way”. They went through a lot of trouble to make sure no one gets lost (still the occasional one does).

34) One of the tiniest churches seen this trip, found among a little grouping of houses. This one was locked up tight, unlike others passed, which were open for entry. They take their religion seriously in Spain.

35) It looks old. Water cistern? Granary maybe? Most buildings we’d see were made of stone or concrete and many date back a long, long time. Dropping down further.

36) We hear some noise behind us, the clip-clop of hooves on cobblestones, their trip, and ours, almost at an end this day.

37) As was typical on this adventure we’d do about two thirds of the hike before lunch and the remainder after. Here’s a pleasant tree lined lane somewhere between villages. We’re lost in the moment and wander as though in a daydream. Or maybe it was the heat? And wine?

4) We’ve been spotted!

38) A place called Tricastela. In most towns we’d see buildings like this, disused and empty, but somewhat intact. That most are made of more durable materials means they don’t deteriorate fast on being abandoned or forgotten and so remain probably just because they’re a lot of work to remove.

39) A Domino mini pickup (we found nothing on this make) and contrasting in size, a Hummer of all things, the last vehicle we’d ever expect to see over there. We only came across handful of North American rides in Spain but most we’re Chryslers, Mini Vans and oddly PT Cruisers. No other GMs (or Fords) were seen.

40) Leapfrogging again. In Sarria, a town of which we’ll spend the night. Here, an old man doing what old men around the world do best, sitting on a bench and watching the world pass. He’s almost swallowed by the vines.

41) We’re in Heaven, but still there’s clothes to be cleaned. All that sweat and road grime and anyway we travel light so have a limited wardrobe. Two washers and two driers. That’s it. Odd they could have fit in so many more. There’s was a line up to use them. All those dirty Peregrinos.

42) It was a tad odd to us that we saw very few old cars in Spain. Perhaps Car Culture is more a North American Thing? Here’s a made in France Renault Caravelle (in some countries/years it was called a Floride). Saw it coming and fired off a from the hip shot as it sped past. Not the best but we’ll take it. This model is probably an early 1960s example and with only some hundred thousand and change being made over one generation. That’d make it fairly rare. We’ve never seen one before, but I don’t think many made it Canada, if any. The view from the laundromat door.

And with that we’re done for the night. Walking, eating, drinking, all that human interaction sure can tire one out. So wanted to explore the city, but time and energy said no. Tomorrow we hit the trail which runs right past our hotel. How convenient!

I think this day was the shortest in terms of distance at about eighteen to twenty clicks. No one’s keeping score.

Till the next instalment, happy trails! It’s been a blast and the party’s just getting started. The El Camino has a way of bring out the fun and excitement in things. And we greedily lap it up.

So far…
Off The Beaten Path en España – touching down in Spain.
España Day 1 – Wandering Madrid – getting to know the city.
España Day 2 – Toledo Cathedral – the most impressive yet.
España Day 3 – Hello Astorga – the last stop before the El Camino.
España Day 4 – Scruffy Peregrino – feet in motion.
España Day 6 – Buen Camino – as though in a dream.
España Day 7: Lost & Loving It – don’t want it to end.
España Day 8: Walking the Cows – things seen and passed.
España Day 9-10: Santiago! – a chapter closed.
España Day 10: Evening in O Pindo – Peregrinos no more.
España Day 11: Porto de Quilmas – a “lazy” day.
España Day 12: Cabo Finisterre/Fisterra – the end of the world.
España Day 13: A Taste of Portugal – one final day.

Hikes at home…
Strawberry Hills.
South Mist Hills.

If you wish more information on what you’ve seen here, by all means contact us!

Date: June, 2018.
Location: Castile & León and Galicia Spain.
Article references and thanks: Paul & Paul Walks in Spain, Katrina & Grant LaRocque.

5) Any time is tractor time.

6) Gaining elevation.

7) It’s an up and over kind of day.

8) So many of these flowers.

9) Lots of these old stone fences too.

10) Thinking back to 1933.

11) Just outside La Laguna.

12) Markers and yellow arrows…everywhere!

13) The scenery has us in awe.

14) Entering Galicia.

15) The trail levels off.

16) Equestrian riders are allowed on this section.

17) Arriving in O Cebreiro.

18) An offering placed…

19) Bars and cafes.

20) The rustic church.

21) And the view inside.

22) Back on the trail.

23) For the next while it’s a pleasant ridge walk.

24) In every town there’s a church and cemetery.

25) Perhaps the most humble one we saw this trip.

26) Dog tired.

27) The Pilgrim at Alto de San Roque.

28) A most scenic section.

29) The town and not a health care institution.

30) A pleasant stroll through the village.

31) Lunch stop!

32) A most enjoyable meal behind us…we walk!

33) You always know the way.

34) The little church.

35) A most wonderful day.

36) A water cistern?

37) The clip-clop of hooves on cobble stones.

38) A couple more clicks to go.

39) A ruin in Tricastela.

40) A contrast in size.

41) The old man blends in.

42) Laundry in Sarria.

43) We only saw few old cars the entire time.