España Day 7: Lost & Loving It

A most glorious day begins. It’s still and silent here in the early hours at Casa Róan, located in a small village out in rural Galicia Spain. The shutters are open letting in a cool morning breeze. What’s that aroma? It’s so…so…clean and crisp. It’s…it’s…it’s fresh air!A deep breath…ahhhh, that’s the stuff. Looking out a fog blankets the countryside and it’s ghostly images of stone farm houses, fields lost in the mist and cows heard but unseen. It meets with our approval. It’s a good day to be on the El Camino.

Breakfast with the group, greetings and chit chat, everyone stoked in anticipation of the day’s adventure ahead. This one has us starting at a cross-road not terribly far from our lodging and ends at little boutique hotel some thirty clicks on. The actual distance covered on foot with be somewhat less, account a section leapfrogged over, described as less than scenic, and cut short by about a third due to high temperatures this day (the hottest of the trip). Feeling guilty here, but still we got in a good walk.

1-2) Wandering about our hotel before roll call, there’s no one about. Casa Róan was once a farm dating back a couple hundred years and like most rural buildings in this area of Spain it’s made of stone. A view from our steps and another in a courtyard. The mist swirls about and softens the light and we don’t ever want to leave.

1) Day break at Casa Róan.

3) Packs on and adjusted, poles in hand, we hit the trail walking that most confident walk one does when spirits are high. The El Camino here and for the next few clicks, follows a quiet rural road that wanders this way and that, passing through one quaint village after another. There’s little Portos, Lestedo, Os Valos and many more. Each is a group of a few homes along with an always present church, spaced some couple/few kilometres apart. And most everything seen is often quite old.

2) It was fog and mist most of the morn.

4) The fog comes and goes. In the distance that row of tallest trees are a grove of Eucalyptus, commonly grown in the area. These are harvested commercially and later get made into paper. They mature quickly allowing a turn over every dozen to fifteen years or so. They are not without controversy, however. Among other complaints, it’s said they’re “ruinous to the environment” (they take a lot of water) and are a money maker for everyone but the farmer.

5) Things seen in a farm yard. Everyone seems to take pride in their properties around here and many are done up nicely with lots of flowers and gardens and stone work. Hórreo!

6) Little village, little country chapel. These smaller churches all tend to follow a similar design and are not nearly as extravagant as those in the big city. In all the but the smallest towns, the churches are often open to passing Pilgrims. We’d stop in any that were, to make an offering and say a prayer or two.

7) And with a church, a cemetery. Often they’re above ground tombs – apartments for the dead – with sections set aside for specific families.

8) The village dog…and it was little interested in us. Come on over and say hi. Nope, not a chance.

9) A canopy of trees, our little group is now well spread out on the trail. Some walk fast while some doddle like us. There’s just so much to see and photograph – and we’ll never be out this way ever again – better capture while we can. That’s us.

10) Just a farm house in the mist. Love how the background fades away.

11) There’s a refreshment stop every few clicks. If you visited all, you’d never get anywhere. As the day progresses, they tend to get busier, but here in the AM there’s few customers about. This section of the trail was oddly quiet. More than any other day.

12) Stinging Nettles. Memo to self, avoid. There would be thick patches of them in places and I’m sure more than one unsuspecting person has accidentally brushed against them. Thankfully the sting doesn’t last too long.

13) Here’s a most pleasant section. And we’re lost in the moment yet again. It’s hard to not be moved by the experience and for each who walk the El Camino it means something completely different. At times it emotionally overwhelming and every once in a while you’d pass some fellow Pilgrim and see the glint of a tear on their cheek, accompanied by a beaming smile.

14) Flowers, flowers everywhere. And these neon green bugs – you can see part of one there inside this Calla Lily.

15) The largest community seen this day, here we’re entering Palas de Rei. Off in the distance – yellow shell, blue background (the defacto symbol of the trail) – marking an Albergue, a Pilgrim’s Hostel. Most towns and village have at least one, and they’re budget friendly. We were spoiled this trip but if we were to pay it a revisit, I think we’d do it true “Peregrino” style. Like on the cheap.

16-18) Church stop. This here one’s called San Tirso (Spanish: Parroquia de San Tirso de Palas de Rei) and dates back to the twelfth century. So many things in Spain going so far back in time. Had we known of Connie’s Cancer, you can bet we’d have been doubling up on prayers at each church. We only found out after our return.

19) Religious statures are everywhere.

20) The trail winds through town. Here, notice that multi-story brick structure off in the distance, what was to be a block of flats that sits unfinished. As the days passed, we’d see more of these half completed structures, built on speculation (the “Spanish Property Bubble”), with working being abandoned part way in. It happened both with houses and apartment blocks. Most of these date to the 1990s/2000s and financially there’s still repercussions from this period being felt in Spain.

3) Hitting the trail.

21) Among houses and shops, we see a fair share of empty abandoned buildings like this. Palas de Rei has seen better days. In the 1940s some thirteen thousand folks called it home but today, it’s about three and half thousand. And wandering the streets, it seems to be mainly comprised of old folks which does not bode well for the town’s future. Everyone we passed was pleasant and friendly, by the way. “Buen Camino!, comes greeting after greeting. The old dudes would sit on benches and watch the parade of Pilgrims.

22) Stuff you see along the trail. A lot of people have put a lot of effort into making the El Camino Trail special. And it took a lot of work.

23) Navigating would be challenging at times, doubly so in larger towns and cities which always seem chaotically laid out, if not for the way being well marked. There’s plenty of yellow shell markers, the symbol of the trail recall, plenty of signs, cairns and countless yellow arrows. Even so, people still get lost. Even us. Briefly.

24) Eternity among the flowers.

25-27) At Casa Domingo, a rest stop. These Flip-Flap icy things are awesome and most welcome given the ever rising temperatures. Later it would be insufferable. Head shake…us cold-conditioned Canucks…thirty degrees brings C&C to complete halt. There’s a huge shell, symbol of the El Camino recall, and some old bike. Interesting photography subjects these.

28) This village has us thinking of that legendary lover.

29) Everywhere you’ll see things like this, prayers scrawled on some rock, messages of hope and peace on some sign or post. This sort of good-vibe graffiti is tolerated.

30) Thank goodness for the trees. It was cooking, the only real bad day in that regard. Heat, as we say way too often, is our Kryptonite.

31-32) And here we call it quits. Reluctantly that is. There’s still some seven or eight kilometres to go, with a lot of it sans shade, says our guide, so we side with caution and hitch a ride to our hotel. Before we go…that fountain looks so inviting! And guilt hits us hard again. About half our group decide to continue on walking, but some are from warmer climes, so perhaps are more used to it. Our group included Canadians, many from the US and one Australian.

33) We’d see a huge number of these abandoned farms. Being made mostly of stone, the buildings rarely collapse all the way. Some of these go back a hundred years, two hundred years, or maybe even more.

34) At the entrance to the hotel, we hang around to greet those who did the full compliment. Some look beat and haggard.

35) In this here building, we’d be spoiled. Great food, comfy accommodations, history, the World Cup on the box, cold brews from the vending machine, it’s about perfect. And while everyone beds down for the night we’re out chasing this spectacular sunset. Sleep later.

36) Our hotel, Pazo de Sedor, is an old farm house dating from the 17th century. It stood derelict for a time but was fixed up nicely. It’s not odd, by the way, for these forgotten building to be bought and made new, and rarely does it seem, that they’re torn down. Those skies!

37) The farmer next door seemed okay with us walking among his veggies – even if neither spoke the language of the other all that well. We made it work. What a spectacular tree too.

38) Pazo de Sedor, it’s a five star review from us.

39) In the back part of the property, harassed by the robot lawnmower, this old stone work, a stair to nowhere. And those skies!

4) Eucalyptus – that row of tall trees.

40) The flowers in Spain seem particularly colourful and vibrant. Here’s a Callistemon that seems common to the area.

5) Amazing things seen and passed.

41) Nature’s show is amazing. Here were are, all tired from the day, full from a most satisfying meal earlier (supper’s always done latter in Spain – that’s okay with us), fútbol memories and now this, the best sunset ever. In the courtyard of some ancient building, older than anything we’ll ever see in Canada, and all these things wondrous. Again, we’re blown away.

42) And lastly before we crash for the night, a strange stairway to places unknown. Climbed them a bit but the walls soon closed in, making further progress for someone my size impossible. Just couldn’t fit. And now there’s a bump on my head – ouch. Who’d have thought…stone is not very forgiving!

And tomorrow’s another day, with promise of fun and adventure, laughs and conversation, fine food and so many memories. The call of the trail is irresistible and once doing it you don’t want to stop. I’m afraid the pictures have not been doing the trip justice. It’s all you see here and way, way more. Seems capturing the El Camino de Santiago experience properly in pictures is not as easy as it sounds. Still, we hope it’s been a fun ride for you. Stay tuned for more.

More from Spain…
Off The Beaten Path en España – touching down in Spain.
España Day 1 – Wandering Madrid – getting to know the city.
España Day 2 – Toledo Cathedral – the most impressive yet.
España Day 3 – Hello Astorga – the last stop before the El Camino.
España Day 4 – Scruffy Peregrino – feet in motion.
España Day 5: Up & Over – lovin’ Spain.
España Day 6: Buen Camino – the “Good Way”.
España Day 8: Walking the Cows – things seen and passed.
España Day 9-10: Santiago! – a chapter closed.
España Day 10: Evening in O Pindo – Peregrinos no more.
España Day 11: Porto de Quilmas – a “lazy” day.
España Day 12: Cabo Finisterre/Fisterra – the end of the world.
España Day 13: A Taste of Portugal – one final day.

If you wish more information on what you’ve seen here, by all means contact us!

Date: June, 2018.
Location: Galicia Region Spain.
Article references and thanks: Paul & Paul Walks in Spain, Katrina & Grant LaRocque.

6) This little country church.

7) And with each comes a cemetery.

8) Hi doggie! It wasn’t interested.

9) Along a country lane.

10) Lost and loving it.

11) So many refreshment stops, so little time.

12) Best avoided.

13) Between little villages.

14) Flowers line “The Way”.

15) Entering Palas de Rei.

16) The spiritual centre of every town.

17) No one about.

18) Amazing stained glass.

19) Wandering the town.

20) Back there, built on speculation.

21) A fixer upper.

22) Many monuments seen.

23) “We are love.”

24) A final resting place.

25) Perfect on a hot day.

26) At Casa Domingo.

27) This old cycle.

28) One little village after another.

29) Positive messages scrawled here and there.

30) Ambling along.

31) At Casa de los Somoza.

32) Game called on account of heat.

33) Ruins near the hotel.

34) Some did the full compliment.

35) NOT an Albergue.

36) That amazing sky.

37) And here’s to the end of the day.

38) Fine accommodations.

39) Ancient stonework.

40) A colourful Callistemon.

41) Sleep calls, but this is just too spectacular.

42) And all I got was a bump on my head.