España Day 10: Evening in O Pindo

With our most incredible El Camino de Santiago trek still a fresh memory (goodness, we never wanted it to end) we’re off to take in adventure anew somewhere down the road. Next stop, it’s a place called O Pindo, a charming and scenic fishing village on the rocky coast of Spain (Galicia region, A Coruña Province). We’ll take up residence in a modest villa overlooking a beautiful beach by little bay and use it as a base to explore the region over the next few days. We’ll even dip into Portugal.

Here we’ll simply wander the town and get to know the community we’ll call home for a time. It’s been a long journey thus far, but in a way most satisfying, and a do-nothing day is in the works. Come take in an evening with us as we randomly explore to see what O Pindo has to offer us strange out-of-towers. Seems we’re the only folks around who are not of the area. There’s no tourist zone here…and it’s fabulous. And honest. And real.

It’s a long road from Santiago de Compostela. We take the back way mostly in our rental car, along winding single lane roads, going up and over a good sized mountain range. In brakes we trust. On car trips it’s a time for talk and not so much for photos. Still, we manage to rattle off a few. At a scenic lookout, it’s our first view of the Atlantic Ocean. Over there and way down below, a white beach several kilometres long. And over that rocky ridge, out of sight, it’s our destination. We’ll soon be home.

We drop off the gear, stop by a local eatery to partake in some delicious local fare and then put our feet in motion. Much of O Pindo is located on a narrow shelf of land, one one side the ocean and on the other steep rocky terrain.

On the south end of town there’s a large beach. It’s gorgeous, with soft silky sand. A boardwalk allows easy access. On an rugged promontory, many rock walls and remains of what must surely be an ancient lighthouse. We later asked around using our broken Spanish, but no one knew how long it had stood, just that it was very old. Going off trail for that special sunset image, it’s nasty prickly plants all about and soon we’re covered in battle scars. But it was worth the shot. In back Cabo Finisterre (or locally Cabo Fisterra), which the Romans believed to be the end of the known world. It’s one of the more westerly points in Spain and we’d pay it a visit in the coming days.

The sunset’s spectacular and soon it’s a soft play of colours in the magic hour.

Over to the fisherman’s pier, lots of little boats and that deep blue/green sea. In the north, across a much larger bay, lights from the next town up twinkle and sparkle as the day turns to night. And immediately to the right the colourful houses of O Pindo. We head back into town and just take in random side streets, most of them narrow and winding. It’s a tight squeeze if you drive them.

More houses painted red, blue and green. Seems everyone here takes pride in their home. So many well kept places, so many well kept gardens and not a thing seemingly out of place. The World Cup is on and the streets are eerily empty, although we can hear the game from so many open windows. And the pubs are doing a good business.

A payphone? And it’s being used! There’s something you don’t see everyday. If Superman ever finds himself here he’s got a place to change.

Back on the boardwalk, the light dims. To the left, it’s a community event and it looks like entire town has turned out. Well those not watching the game. We’re spotted as we walk past and are given an invite to join in. Looks like it’s a fish fry. But sleep calls. It’s been a long day.

We settle in to our room. The neighbour attends to his wood fired grill. Soon it’s the intoxicating aroma of barbecued meat. In the west, past our very own hórreo granary, it’s the last light of day. Hórreos are very common in the area and are generally built to a similar form, long and narrow with slatted sides. These can be made of any number of materials with many seen the area being constructed of stone. And most are quite ancient. We see a date scratched in ours – looks like 18xx something.

It’s a few minutes of the World Cup…someone against someone else…what flag is that…and soon it’s a touchdown. Or is that a home run? Hard to focus and think. Sniff, sniff…hmmmm, meat and fire. Down the way, the party’s in full swing. We can hear it. Would love to attend but we’ve been going full throttle for more than a week, walking and exploring much and sleeping little (on purpose) so as not to miss a single thing. Now it all catches up with us. It all goes dark. You can’t fight it, time for bed. Good night O Pindo. See you in the morning. This little stroll about town has us knowing we’ll love the stay.

Tomorrow and the few days that follow before we reluctantly have to fly on home, we’ve much things to do and many places to see. Come join us again in the next instalment. Spain is AWESOME!

More Spain…
Off The Beaten Path en España – touching down in Spain.
España Day 1 – Wandering Madrid – getting to know the city.
España Day 2 – Toledo Cathedral – the most impressive yet.
España Day 3 – Hello Astorga – the last stop before the El Camino.
España Day 4 – Scruffy Peregrino – feet in motion.
España Day 5: Up & Over – lovin’ Spain.
España Day 6: Buen Camino – the “Good Way”.
España Day 7: Lost & Loving It – as though in a dream.
España Day 8: Walking the Cows – a magical day.
España Day 9-10: Santiago! – one things ends, another soon to begin.
España Day 11: Porto de Quilmas – a “lazy” day.
España Day 12: Cabo Finisterre/Fisterra – the end of the world.
España Day 13: A Taste of Portugal – one final day.

If you wish more information on what you’ve seen here, by all means contact us!

Date: June, 2018.
Location: O Pindo, Galicia Region, A Coruña Province, Spain.
Article references and thanks: Katrina & Grant LaRocque.

On the road to O Pindo.

At Miradoiro De Louredo lookout.

Home for a few days is over there.

This old lighthouse…

…And an ancient stone wall.

The beach boardwalk.

Down by the fishing pier.

Across the bay it’s this fine view.

It’s our little village…

Just wandering about…

In the still of the evening.

A pay phone just used?

Scenes of a town we fell in love with.

Over there, locals get together and party.

Our neighbour fires up the grill.

The rental comes with it’s own (old) Hórreo Granary.