Urban Trek: 17th Ave SE

This one goes back a year or so, a rocky period for Team BIGDoer. At that time Connie was in the midst of her Cancer battle that would eventually have her losing an entire breast. With that we we’re limited in what we could do outside. But even with pain and irritation a constant companion, she insisted we get out and walk. In town, just in case there was a problem. With the first operation mere weeks before and the next to soon to follow, bandaged up and hurting, we took to the streets at her insistence. Brave and strong is that girl.

In this “urban trek” we take in the best parts of 17th Avenue Southeast, aka “International Avenue” account all the Asian stores and eateries that call it home. Collectively the whole area is known as Forest Lawn even if some sections actually have other names officially. Up until the early 1960s it was a town unto itself before being annexed by Calgary. In some ways, it still has the feel of a place removed from the big city, even if surrounded by it. But it’s all vanishing fast. Till then, it retain that edgy, unrefined vibe and does so unapologetically…but could the gentrification monster be lurking?

Start on 14th Ave SE, just east of 65th St. There’s a green space here with lots of free on-street parking. Backtrack to 65th, and head a block or two south to 17th Ave. On both sides it’s two large trailer parks, Mountview (maybe on a clear day if standing atop a cell tower) and Penbrooke Heritage Estates, now Calgary Village (who has an AWEFUL reputation online). Mobile Home Parks like this get zero respect from the general public who seen them as havens for petty criminals, drug dealers and users and others of low socioeconomic status. So “trailer trash”. Even if relatively tidy and orderly, as these appear, the stereotype remains. In fact, a lot of tenants are old folks on limited income who lead quiet lives. Google calls the neighbourhood here Red Carpet.

Homes for under $30k? How’s that even possible? Here, in a town where an all out hovel, say like “BIGDoer Estates” can be had from nothing short of a king’s ransom? Even the cheapest single family dwellings in Calgary go for hundreds and hundreds of thousands. Here, a refrigerator box under a bridge requires a mortgage. But yet, that’s what the sign says. Cool vintage motorhome spotted!

Now on 17th Ave head west – it’ll be sidewalks the whole rest of the way Soon in cross the train tracks, and later 52nd Street, where things get a little more interesting. Along the way, a place called “chopstix” whose symbol includes a knife and fork but not its namesake eating utensil. Huh?

Pass Pho place after Pho place, stores of all manner, used car lots and so on. All around it’s BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) construction. They’re putting in a centre lane only for buses, that will allow them to leapfrog ahead of other traffic. This has since opened and I guess shaves a lot of time off a trip. Further, it’s old school Chinese Food places, one after another, all right out of the 1970s. Chinese and Western Food, as they all used say. Mmmm, red sauce, that sweet sticky nectar of the Gods.

What’s that? A real honest to goodness mom & pop computer store! And he were thought them extinct. Now it’s pawn shops (camera gear!) and cheque cashing places. Signs of the times. Side streets hold treasures (old cars). Here it’s a 1967 Oldsmobile 98 luxury land yacht that looks roadworthy even if it’s showing its age. What a beast! And there a 1978 Chrysler Cordoba. In our best Montalban voice…”with soft and rich Corinthian Leather”. V8 baby! Cheap fuel for all! Cars today feel so austere in comparison.

At the Forest Lawn Shopping Centre, loop back to the south side of 17th. Vacant houses on 28th St SE, suggest some redevelopment coming. So goes it. Heading east now, it’s more Asian shops and such. The Hong Kong Supermarket is the most chaotic store on the planet in regards to layout. There’s little order to the place with stuff pilled here and there in seemly in a random fashion, and it’s often quite busy. And it’s fabulous. When we shop there, we’re usually the only non-Asians.

Chicken on the Way is a Calgary go-to since like forever and makes KFC look like a healthy option. And this one is housed in an old grocery store belonging to a firm that also similarly was (once) a Calgary Institution. See: Loaf & Jug.

More Pho places, pawn shops, weed-dispensaries and vape stores. Not shortage of places to eat along here. With a logo looking right out of the 1960s, Paradise Lanes advertises “Punk Rock Bowling”. Now there’s an event we would have loved to attend if not for our crazy schedule. And there’s the old mid-1960s era sign for Four Seas Restaurant, all that’s left of the business that once stood here. It displays the “wonton font” which back then graced nearly every Chinese eatery, but today is said to be insensitive to the culture. How about that crazy retro zig-zag roof line!

More construction. Chicago’s Pub & Grill has Karokee! Looks like a place one might find Patrick Swayze’s Dalton character working. Who’s with us in going in? There appears to be an apartment above. Wonder what it’s like living above a bar? Not much peace and quiet we suspect. While mostly it’s business strips along here there’s one small section of 17th (well a side street beside that parallels) has a few houses. A block east, memories of the world’s crappiest trailer park, now a strip mall. This one was a “Sunnyvale” stereotype, famous city wide as the s*******t place to live ever.

More this and that. If we see an independent grocery store, so no chains, we stop and buy lotto. It’s a thing. And as usual we came away with hopes and dream dashed. There we were, angry and despondent at the Bake & Shake! One day though…

Little Saigon Centre mimics the look of the Ben Thanh Market in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) Vietnam. In spite of the change, done in the mid-1970s with the end of the Vietnam War, many still refer to the city by its old name. Especially those who loathed the government who came to power after hostilities.

Ahh, the Town & County, the T’n’C, perhaps the last old school hotel in town, retaining that as built early 1970s vibe. By Calgary standards, it’s from another time. Plain and simple a dive, it perhaps holds title as the most notorious in all the city. A look online speaks of shootings, bedbugs, spent condoms and one star review after one star review. But hey, it’s likely the cheapest in town, so you do get what you pay for. They used to have a strip bar here, but you already guessed that. All the classy joints have peelers.

We love dive accommodations*, and often stay at these budget places, but even we might give it a wide berth. It seems popular with truckers. All those cell towers on the roof!

*Dated and worn is fine but clean and tidy a must.

Continue on, it’s more strip malls, some industrial stuff by the tracks and soon, you’re back where you started. Along here, to the south, the gate that is the last remains of the Corral Four Drive In which closed decades ago. There’s a scarcity of little fibreglass trailers in the off season, so a plain old Trillium, the most common of them all, even brings some excitement as we pass. It’s not a Boler, but will do.

And there you go, a tour of neighbourhood that some might call unpretty. To us, it’s something more. We love places like this with zero pretension and a raw honesty. No heirs, but things cracked and worn and in need of paint, no putting on airs, a beautiful imperfection that’s real. Hope you enjoyed it.

More city walks…
Beltline Adventure.
Calgary’s Best Walks #20 (sorta).
Centre Street: Back in Time.

If you wish more information about this route, by all means contact us!

Date of adventure: September, 2019.
Location: Calgary, AB.
Distance: 9km out and back.
Height gain maximum: 0m.
Height gain cumulative: 0m.
NOTE: all distances and heights are approximate.
Technical stuff and notes: You can’t resist the food options!

Passing Mountview Mobile Home Park.

Homes from 30k?

Now heading east down 17th Ave SE.

Why a knife & fork?

This here mural.

Dedicated to the Aboriginal Community…

We’ve driven worse.

So much construction account the 17th Ave SE BRT.

Formerly the Eastgate.

Mmmmm, red sauce.

Vitamin P please! (He said while wearing a bunnyhug.)

Cooked over a flaming barrel.

Over fifty & still on the road.

Most uncommon, a mom & pop computer store.

A spare for the BIGDoer-mobile.

Macs are becoming Circle K.

Chinese Food places are a theme this day.

Vacant…

Hong Kong Market, awesomely chaotic.

Making KFC appear a healthy option.

Take time to dance.

Traffic’s but a blur.

Punk Rock Bowling!

The restaurant’s gone but the sign remains.

Construction everywhere!

They do Karokee!

With Corinthian Leather?

Fronting on a busy road.

Got a Betamax that’s acting up.

Lotto stop!

And soon it’s hopes & dreams dashed.

Cause Little Ho Chi Minh City Centre is clunky.

Last of the old school hotels – cell reception is awesome!

A distinctive International Lonestar.

Three out the window.

And I bet they jay-walk too!

Remains of the old Corral Four.

It ain’t a Boler, but it’ll do.

In a moment we’re homeward bound.

Mostly a straight line.