Rocky Mountain House Historic Site

We’re visiting the Rocky Mountain House Historic Site, an amazing place with a storied past and below it’s a little tour for your enjoyment. But before the photos allow us to share a little backstory and babble on about what you’ll see and when done, and only when done, come pay the site a visit. Step back in time as we did and get to know this country’s past. It’s fascinating!

Long ago, the fur trade was a dominate industry in what would later become Canada. At strategic points along major waterways, highways of the day, trading posts were established where trappers could exchanged pelts for goods. There was big demand back in Europe and business was brisk.

To think, from these humble beginnings a country was later born.

In the late 1700s, two competing firms set up shop in the wilderness along the mighty North Saskatchewan River, in what was then the extreme western reaches of Rupert’s Land. At the foot of the Rockies, in a time distant and mysterious, the location chronicled here went on to become a centre of commerce. On this very spot and eons ago, it all played out.

Flashback and the forts at Rocky Mountain House are hive of activity with pelts being brought in by First Nation’s and Metis folk to exchange for provisions. A trading post was the supermarket of the day and only differing in currency. Need a new musket, a bolt of cloth or a sack of flour maybe? All could be found here. Also a social centre, it’s where local gossip and news from distant points could be heard. A steady stream of Voyageurs in their freighter canoes kept the goods flowing and were the teamsters of the day.

Then the BIGDoer-mobile says hold my coffee…

In the beginning, the Hudson’s Bay Company founded Acton House on this site, where as the North West Company called their new outpost a stone’s throw away, Rocky Mountain House. The latter name that’s stuck ever since. Both firms had a wide reaching network of trading posts in competition with each other and we’re often in close proximity as was the case here. For one, this afforded traders the chance to shop around and seek out the best deals but it was also advantageous from a security standpoint.

Each post was comprised of a group of buildings, with housing, store rooms and trading areas, all surrounded by a protective wooden wall. Guard towers remind us that conflict was an ever present threat on the frontier. Outside, traders would set up temporary camps, do their business and maybe hang around for a few days, then vanish back into the wilderness.

In total there were four separate trading posts/forts here over the years, the last closing in the 1870s. By that later date this part of Rupert’s Land had was incorporated into Canada’s North West Territories.

The fur trade is complicated and cyclical, so at times the trading posts were abandoned for periods, rebuilt afterwards and relocated (but never far away). Fire was a even present danger too. Early on, a merger between the HBC and NWC made one post redundant and with that Rocky Mountain House was closed, with Acton House then taking on the name. All trading posts that followed kept it as well.

These posts were also a base for explorers, including David Thompson, who famously mapped millions of kilometres of North America.

On closing for the last time the site soon fell into disrepair and save for a few scattered remnants seen today is completely gone. A new town sprung up across the river in the 1910s, taking its name from the trading post. In 1905 this section of the North West Territories was incorporated into present day Alberta.

Fast forward to the here and now and the Rocky Mountain House Historic Site is managed by Parks Canada with plenty to see for those interested in history. On entering, there’s a interpretive centre where one can learn about the fur trade and the impact it had on the local Indigenous population. A Made Beaver (equivalent to one good quality pelt) was at the time a unit of exchange.

Beyond, one can wander the property at will and take in the remains of two old chimneys dating back to the final trading post (and restored ca 1940s). There was a complete fort here and this is all that’s left but with a little imagination you can picture yourself in the middle of it all. Interpreters, in period costumes take on roles of old. Chat up a blacksmith, take in a dance at the Metis encampment and get to know Voyageurs and fur traders who can explain the different pelts seen. Beaver was the most common animal trapped, but any furry beast was fair game. A Red River Cart is on display and these were used for overland travel. Simple and rugged, they were usually made entirely of wood with no metal components.

Trails reach every corner of the expansive property, with plenty of stops of interest to view informative plaques and displays. Buffalo roam a fenced compound and naturally were a bit camera shy for us and so kept their distance. A miniature trading post helps one understand how they we’re laid out and functioned. At the site of Acton House, the post is outlined by a metal skeleton and elsewhere depressions mark the location of the original Rocky Mountain House fort.

The popular Parks Canada red chairs offer one a chance to sit and relax, and are great for photo-ops. Crosses mark a burial ground, and wandering about there’s Teepees (also Tepees or Tipis) and sweat lodges. Hike down to the river, or stroll through the trees and with each turn there’s something new to see. Here’s nature’s wonder and so much history and it’s more of an experience than we could ever share here.

On display, a canoe that participated in world record beating race that started from Rocky Mountain House to Expo ’67 in Montreal in honour of Canada’s 100th. Taking many months, teams from all over the country channelled their inner Voyageur and covered some 5200 kilometres on water (with the odd over-land portage) to reach their destination. What a life changing trip it must have been.

One can camp at the Rocky Mountain House Historic Site and come evening can explore the grounds. If you’re into solitude, that vibe we so love, there’s a good chance you’ll have the place to yourself then. Bring a tent or an RV, or you can stay at a rental cabin, Teepee or trapper’s tent. When we come back, and we will, we’ll have a hard time picking which of the last three we’d choose to spend the night. Decisions, decisions.

Smoke from forest fires had the sun a big glowing ball on our visit, a eerie view with the sky all awash red and orange. What an apocalyptic moment. Then magically, while photographing the last scene at the lit up Teepee, the smoke cleared and mere moments later fog rolled in. And then there was complete silence, there in the dark, the only light around that of our making. What a magic happening and with that it’s goodnight all. We’ve reached peak awesome and with that our work here’s done.

The Hudson’s Bay Company dates back to 1600s and still with us today. Their company colours (green, red, yellow and indigo stripes on a white background) have always been an iconic symbol of the firm.

We’re at the Rocky Mountain House Historic Site!

The site has been recognized historically and greeting visitors from far and wide for many decades now. It’s a recommend stop on any history tour and surprisingly this was our first visit. What? You guys, first timers?

In the parking lot on our arrival, it’s Tuck’s Truck (Google it). Owned by Marcus and Julie Tuck they’re “Overlanding the World in an Iveco Daily 4×4” and with that it’s a multi year adventure of a lifetime. Their ride, Cuthbert, is an impressive go-anywhere beast and maybe as yet the closest rival to the mighty BIGDoer-mobile. Emphasis on maybe. Our ride is small and cheap but with the heart of the Scout and has taken us places few cars would dare go.

Here’s some useful search queries if want to know more: Rocky Mountain House Historic Site, Fur Trade in Canada and Metis People.

Till next time, keep being curious.

They’re saying…

”Their enthusiasm and dedication to the history of our Province and what and where certain things took place around our Province. Great work!” Brad Steck.

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If you feel like chatting or want more information on what you’ve seen here feel free to contact us!

Date of Adventure: September, 2020.
Location(s): Rocky Mountain House, AB.
Article references and thanks: Micheal Moynihan @ Parks Canada plus the Rocky Mountain House Historic Site plus and great interpretive staff.
You can tour and visit everything seen here!

It’s the site of several former fur trading posts.

Blacksmithing was an important skill then.

All that remains of one fort.

At the Metis camp.

Scary, even in this state.

A fur trade’s wares.

A Red River Cart if by land.

A tool of the trade.

From the Centennial Voyageur Canoe Race.

A First Nation’s encampment.

Depressions mark the outline of a fort.

Parks Canada’s famous red chairs.

Bison roam about, but seem camera shy.

With each turn, something to learn.

A Zoom interview mid-shoot.

Names long forgotten.

Smoke from forest fires gave us this atomic sun.

All quiet at the end of the day.

Hudson Bay colours.

A scaled-down fort.

The smoke cleared, the fog rolled in and it was magic.