Ghosts of the Crowsnest Subdivision

Railway archaeology: “The study and enjoyment of relics from past eras of rail transportation” (Wikipedia). It’s a bit of an oddball pastime and rarely is there a wow factor, but still it’s something we love. In this post we’ll explore remains of an abandoned section of the Crowsnest Subdivision in Southern Alberta and it’s made all the more interesting thanks to a movie connection.

This railway line dates back to the 1890s and the segment looked at here remained in use for almost a century. Rising waters in a newly constructed reservoir forced a bypass route to be built and it’s been quiet here ever since. The rails and infrastructure were removed, but the roadbed and other scattered bits were left behind.

The line was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway (now Canadian Pacific Kansas City) and this section is the Crowsnest Subdivision. It’s still busy enough and several trains were noted this day. You could hear them, but they were not always within view due to rolling terrain.

Looking for ghosts of the Crowsnest Subdivision.

Our visit required crossing private land (permission obtained) but the site of a massive bridge (highlight of this adventures) can be viewed by boaters on the Oldman Reservoir. It’s that body of water which doomed the structure and hence the line, although on our visit, levels were quite low in this arm. Just a trickle and not enough to float on.

There’s been some dry times these last few years but let’s hopes the conditions are cyclical. At other times the water is half-way up the valley and the high point marked by a distinct line.

Due to the low water some of the old concrete bases of the bridge normally submerged, were visible. Formerly, this valley was home to the Castle River, but it now usually enters the the reservoir further south in the upper reaches of the arm.

The bridge was not designed to have submerged elements and this explains the need for a reroute. They could have rebuilt it in a new form, we suppose, but they must have found the reroute the simplest solution.

The structure dated from 1912 and so they got good use of it. Railways are known for overbuilding things and it’d probably still be standing today if not for the reservoir. Prior to this structure, there a large wooden trestle stood here and the intent (probably) to replace it at the first opportunity likely on their minds. Get the trains running and then make improvements.

There were more wood trestles on the line leading up to the bridge (old photos confirm this), but these were later filled in. Old timbers from these structures can be seen poking out of the roadbed in spots. It was common practice to build wood trestles to get things moving, then over time bury them under fill. Bridges require more maintenance than a roadbed, so it’s simple economics.

Still, one must wonder what happens when the timbers finally rot away and do they leave behind a void? Research suggests yes, eventually, but this condition and the the gradual settling of the fill early on, it seems, were both planned for. They expected it and simply added more fill.

Some of the ballast on this line is of ash and cinders (clinker), which is a leftover waste material from burning coal in steam locomotives. Railways would often use this stuff in such a way. They accumulated a fair amount and since it has no purpose otherwise, they used it like gravel.

The bridge was of the deck plate design (so open topped) and supported by regularly spaced steelwork sitting atop concrete piers at ground level. The complete structure got removed but these piers, an abutment and a large concrete support on the far (west) side, were all left behind. The latter displays the date 1912.

Removal of this section of line occurred about 1990 and it’s concurrent with the completion of the bypass not far away. Rails were taken up, but lots of miscellaneous metal got left behind. Old tie plates, spikes, various barrels, buckets and the like.

The bridge appears briefly in the 1976 film Silver Streak with Gene Wilder and Richard Pryor. It’s a thriller comedy and the story of a murder aboard a transcontinental train (the Silver Streak). While set the US, much filming took place in Canada and especially Alberta. The Crowsnest Pass and Crowsnest Subdivision are backdrops for many scenes and for regulars to the area like us, the landmarks are instantly recognizable.

In one scene the Silver Streak is briefly seen crossing this very bridge and with a biplane in chase. The aircraft is carrying the main character Wilder (Caldwell) who is leapfrogging ahead of the train after earlier being thrown off. His plans were to reboard it in the next town and for this he elicited the help of a local pilot.

No documents could be found in respect to this as a filming location, but the mountains in back help confirmed what we were already suspicious of. We knew it for a long time and they line up perfectly. Silver Streak did get filmed in the area so it makes sense to use this spot also, even if no mention of it has yet to be found. The Crowsnest Subdivision runs from Lethbridge to Crowsnest on the Alberta/BC border.

The Silver Streak train was made up of Canadian Pacific equipment and thinly disguised for the fictional carrier AmRoad.

A similar bridge a bit to the east is still in use on this line and it’s easily seen from the highway. To the west of Brocket and once down the hill…to the south. That bridge is close in form and design, but smaller (relativity speaking).

That it’s of the same design (and records hint of the same era), suggests they had a common builder. No information who made either/both could be found, but at the time Canada has a number of large bridge building firms. Dominion Bridge and Canadian Bridge come to mind.

It’s confirmed Canadian Bridge did supply other spans on the Crowsnest Subdivision around the same time as the one we’re speaking of, so the good money is on them.

A large concrete culvert is found down from the bridge (dated 1912) and is used by cattle to pass under the railbed. Or former railbed today. Cattle ranching has always been big out this way. Later on a little range rider’s cabin is spotted. It’s small but cozy, with room for one person and a stove. Broken ceramics are scattered about near the entry. A metal roof will keep one dry no matter the weather.

There’s odd bits scattered about – here it’s a tie plate.

We linger a little while and imagine the trains still ran here. The line carried much freight and countless passengers but now it’s all quiet. It saw the passing of steam locomotives and modern diesels, an endless parade, and while the trains still run, they’re a bit off in the distance now. It’s a scenic spot and the southern Rockies are an amazing backdrop to this adventure. We love this area for the beauty and the history. We’ll be back…we always comes back.

Know more (new tab): Railway Archaeology and Silver Streak Movie 1976.

They’re saying…

“Unsung heroes of the internet!” Leonard O’Brien.

Something similar…
Dunshalt Alberta 1974 and 2013. Then and now time!
Railway Grave (Revisited). Killed while working on the railway and buried next to the tracks.
Planned Railway Line Empress Alberta. Planned, but never built.

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Date of adventure: October 2023.
Article references and thanks: CPR Archives @Exporail, Canadian Pacific Historical Association and UofC Photo Archives.

Remains of the Castle River Bridge.

Low water in the Oldman Reservoir this year.

The bridge got bypassed and removed about 1990.

Wind turbines are common down this way.

Seen in Silver Streak (1976) – standing on the marked abutment.

The roadbed leading up to the bridge.

To let cattle pass and marked 1912.

Timbers from a filled in trestle.

An old range cabin built into the side of the roadbed.

Barely room for anything inside.

Remains of a plate.

Cinders from Steam locomotives used for ballast and fill.