Sometimes it’s fun to go in with no set plans or goals in mind. Who doesn’t love the pure and unadulterated joy than comes with discovery? Today, and for the whole day, we’re hitting up Denman & Hornby Islands out in the Strait of Georgia on British Columbia’s West Coast. They’re two of the Northern Gulf Islands, they’re scenic, rugged and supernatural.
We’re hanging with a couple of friends and they have names our regular readers might recognize. Rob, the fellow with the big view (film) camera is there along Arturo, a fine art photographer who shoots film, but also delves into digital. It might seem like a strange mix but we all share a passion to get out and explore, so these collaborations work unusually well.
1 Day: Denman & Hornby Islands (BC) with Chris Doering & Connie Biggart (BIGDoer/Synd)
Thanks goes out “Rob Pohl & Arturo Pianzola” for helping make this and many other posts at BIGDoer.com possible. Be an Rob & Arturo…
Remember we spoke about plans? Well, there is an itty-bitty one – hit the ferry early – there’s actually two to take – go to the furthest possible point and then slowly work back. That’s it. No research, no studying and we’ll just go with the wind. If you see a road drive down it and see where it goes. Simple, carefree and an awesome approach this day.
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Just make sure to not miss the last ferry or it means spending the night on which ever island you’re on. We’re no strangers to sleeping in a vehicle, but with three it’d be a little crowded (Connie’s didn’t come this time). The ferry sets the pulse and determines everything on Denman & Hornby, so always be mindful of the time. The boats run often, so it really shouldn’t be a big deal, but still it’d be easy to lose track of time given the distractions here.
One day, and especially at the slow pace our group works at, is not enough to time to see it all. In fact, I think we only scratched the surface and if the lotto Gods are ever kind to us, we’ll return and get to know both islands better. Much better. Over what ever time it would take – a few days – a week or two – we can dream. For one, there’s some hikes on both islands we’d kill to do.
This is not a full tour – not even close – but simply things we saw while roaming about. There were beaches, docks and wooded groves explored. Being machinery-heads, the ferries themselves were as big interest. It’s more of a photo tour than an in-depth history piece like we usually do.
The MV Baynes Sound Connector, between Vancouver Island and Denman, is cable ferry and the longest in the world at almost two kilometres. The cables both guide the ship and are acted on to propel it. They cables have enough slack that they sit on the seabed when not in close proximity to the ship, so they’re not a hazard to other vessels. Traffic lights on the channel mark when the ferry is in use, so there’s no accidents.
MV Quinitsa was the ship used for the Denman to Hornby Island run. To get to it requires crossing Denman after the first ferry. The Quinitsa formerly ran on the Vancouver Island to Denmam run and does not appear to be a regular on the Hornby route. BC Ferries lists the MV Kahloke as the regular ship assigned here. It must have been in for repairs or maintenance on our visit and the Quinitisa a substitute.
Before we get to the pics, let’s have a little summary about both islands…
Denman & Hornby are just a short distance off the east coast of Vancouver Island. Access is a little south of Courtney/Comox (our base) and the ferry landing is just off the old Island Highway at Buckley Bay. You can’t miss the signage or the ferry landing.
Denman is the larger of the two islands and many, many times longer than it is wide. Hornby is about half the size and more stout in shape. Both are well wooded and can be quite rugged in places. Dense woods and thick underbrush are typical. Lots of ferns and dense blackberry thickets. The latter are all thorny and spider infested. They take over any clear but otherwise untended land and in a few short years can engulf anything in their way.
The history of these islands goes back to the indigenous people – hundreds and hundreds of years back – but we won’t go too deep into the backstory and rather just show you around a little. Photos, for fun, and not the usual blah-blah-blah.
Both islands have similar sized populations (1300-ish) and are home to some really eclectic people. Laid back, easy going types who love solitude and nature. It’s like stepping into another world, or to San Fran in the ’60s, and things move at a much more relaxed pace. The city has ruined us and slowing down felt almost wrong. As stupid as it sounds.
Both islands have some amenities like stores and eateries. There’s lots of B&Bs and guest houses listed on maps but no motels in the traditional sense.
This was not our first visit to Denman & Hornby and back in the 1990s, we spent some time there (almost exclusively on Hornby, at a cabin arranged by a friend), but the memories are too far in the past now. It’s all distant and cloudy. If we captured photos they’ve been lost or misplaced.
”Chris and Connie have a unique way of documenting the places they visit, not copying the style or technique of others, but making it their own.” Alex Craig, Filmmaker.
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Date of adventure: October 2023. Location: Denman & Hornby Islands (east side of Vancouver Island, in the Northern Gulf Islands and on the Strait of Georgia). Article references and thanks: Rob & Arturo, VisitDenmanIsland.ca, Denman & Hornby Islands Visitor Guide and BC Ferries.
(2023) Beer Parlour Project Friday 🍺 Old Motels Edition: The Sunset in Fort Macleod Alberta...at sunset.
Fort Macleod is home to many old motor court style motels & we have a thing for them too. The Sunset first makes mention around 1960, as the Sunset Motel & Trailer Park on Macleod Trail (now Crowsnest Highway). There are still some occupied trailers behind the place, but we’re not sure if they still connected with the motel.
(2023) Beer Parlour Project Friday 🍺 Old Hotels Edition: The Queens in Fort Macleod Alberta. It dates to 1903 & is among a group of the oldest hotels still standing in the province. They had recently closed the year before this photo, but it's now getting fixed up by new owners. Last time we passed by, summer 2024, construction fences & dumpster bins surrounded the building.
We were in contact with the previous owners of the Queens regarding the Beer Parlour Project & they seemed open to the idea. But soon after they shut down. Historic Stevens Building in back.
(2023) Beer Parlour Project Friday 🍺 Old Hotels Edition: The American Hotel (built 1913) in Fort Macleod Alberta. It closed quite some time ago (mid-1990s) but someone has been working on it recently.
The sun star was just pure dumb luck. That it lined up with two windows is amazing & this only happened because the building was being gutted & was empty on that floor.
Wrentham Alberta & what a difference a short 25 years makes (1995 & 2020). Click see more👇
The silver elevator dates to 1925 (a century old this year!) & it's intact mechanically. It's the last wood Ogilvie Flour Mills elevator in the province & is owned by the Ogilvie Wooden Grain Elevator Society who saved it from being demolished. Check them out & donate if you can.
The structure was farmer owned before & used up until the early 2010s. It was also owned by the Alberta Wheat Pool at one time. Refer to a link below to learn more about this scene.
The elevator further back is fairly modern (1960s).
Roadside Attractions Andrew Alberta (2020) & a sign of the times. This is said to be the biggest mallard in the world & whoever added that mask maybe helped bring on a smile or two to people passing by. The photo was captured during the height of the pandemic.
This was captured during a roadtrip in support of the book Lost Alberta: Forgotten & Abandoned History. The manuscript was completed but sadly it never went to print (it still turns up in the publisher's book searches). No bother & we still had a grand time making it. Going on adventures together & making memories is what we love & everything else is not that important. _______
Exploring history with Chris & Connie from Off the Beaten Path. Thanks, Chris.
You can still catch a movie at the 113 year old Empress Theatre Fort Macleod Alberta. Click see more👇
They've hosted film & live events here since 1912 & the building has been beautifully restored. It's run by the Empress Theatre Society & we should all give them a round of applause for their dedication. Bravo!
The Empress is one of the oldest continuously operating theatres in the province & a showpiece in historic downtown Fort Macleod. Even thought we visit the town often, we've never been inside & we think that needs to change.
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