This hike is nothing but fun the whole way and the further in you go the better it gets. There are lakes, many of them, one a gorgeous jade colour, stunning peaks all around, giant boulders and if the timing is right (and it was for us) golden larches in the fall. At the end is a barren rocky basin surrounded by mountains that is incredibly photogenic. This is the Three Lakes Valley trail in Kananaskis and the scenery is simply amazing.
Drive to the Chester Lake parking lot on Highway #742, aka the Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail road. You can approach from either Canmore or Peter Lougheed Park. It’s a gravel no matter which way you come, so expect to get your car dirty. The price we pay…
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Begin at the north end of the parking lot, by the biffies, and find the marked Chester Lake trail – the one on the south end of the lot takes one to Headwall Lakes, a fine destination too. Cross a stream and follow the logging road as it twists and climbs generally trending east. Many offshoot roads are passed – the logging area is a maze of them – but most are overgrown meaning the way to go is always obvious. Expect to share this trail with many fellow hikers, it’s a busy one, and if you’re unsure where to go, just follow them!
As you gain height, look back and take in the many mountains on the opposite side of the valley. One can see the route up Burstall Pass too.
Higher up the road ends, at some bike racks, the trail reverting to single track from there on. It soon levels outs. Here and there some breaks in the trees allow one a view ahead. A large meadow is passed, shared with Chester Creek, and soon after Chester Lake itself is reached. Take time to circle it or simply bask in its beauty, or do that on the way down as we did. We pass some extensive bear diggings here. Towering over the lake on the south shore is Mount Chester, which can be scrambled.
Flanking the left side of the lake, we take the less-beaten path heading left and up, leaving the Chester Lake trail behind (for now). We’ll come down via another route that parallels this one a few hundred metres east, the Three Lakes Valley trail most people use, on the return trip. We come to a stream, with some small waterfalls, and soon reach a huge pile of boulders, the reason we came this way. Stuff to play on! The larches get thicker here and all were a glorious yellow. This species is the only conifer to shed its needles for winter.
Moving again, we meet up with that more heavily used trail which we spoke of earlier, that we’ll use on the way back. Turn left, heading in a northeasterly direction as the path winds here and there sometimes beside a gurgling stream. A lake is passed, the first of those in Three Lakes Valley, and the largest and lowest. The others are higher up, much higher and at best, are puddles. At least at this time of year – perhaps in spring they’re bigger.
Climb up a steep grassy ramp to the top of a headwall, leaving the trees behind. Your soon in a barren rocky valley that’s incredibly desolate, yet oh so beautiful. It had been cold and windy all day for us hut up here the temperature dropped dramatically and snow squalls came and went. This is hiking in Kananaskis in the fall!
The going from here on is on rocks. There is no trail but none is needed. A little more climbing and the next two of the Three Lakes Valley “lakes” come into view. The basin extends east at a fairly level grade for perhaps a kilometre or two. We keep on but many other hikers turned around here.
At a cairn on a small rise is our turn around point, a truly magical place, a treeless jumble of rock, surrounded on three sides by mountains – Mount Galatea on the left, Gusty Peak on the right and a high ridge connecting them together in front. A more starkly beautiful place could not be imagined.
If you go further, the valley becomes much rougher. There are huge boulders everywhere and it’s not really worth the effort. The views are just as good from this spot. The old Fortress Ski Hill is right on the other side of ridge seem directly in front. By car, it’s dozens of clicks away.
On the way back we take refuge below some boulders, next to one of the lakes, to have our lunch. The snow swirls around us.
In no time you’re back at the top of the headwall. Enjoy a great view of the valley spread out below. Wow!
Drop down, pass the first lake and in short order come to a mass of giant boulders, different from the ones seen on the way up (assuming you follow our directions to the letter). They’re said to look like an Elephant and in fact are known as Elephant Rocks, but we don’t get it. I circle around twice to see if I could make it/them out. Perhaps it’s like constellations and you need a wild imagination to make it work?
From here Chester Lake is not too far away and getting to it takes no time at all. It’s a lovely body of water, tinged a wonderful blue/green. It’s too big to get in one shot though. A popular destination for many hikers all by itself, those wanting something not too strenuous with a good reward at the end, plus anglers, means you’ll share it with many others.
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An easy trail circles around the north shore, a rougher one, the south. A second valley home to Upper Chester Creek, heads off to the east of the lake and appears to be a popular destination too. Hikers can be seen coming down the scree from the headwall high above. We might want to check that out ourselves some day.
Back on the Chester Lake trail it’s a four kilometre, almost exclusively downhill trek, back to the parking lot. We share the route with many happy hikers, heading back as us, who also spent an enjoyable day in the high country. It’s a busy place, but a happy one.
If you wish more information on this train, by all means contact us!
Date of adventure: September, 2015. Location: Smith-Dorrien area, Kananaskis AB. Distance: 13km there and back. Height gain maximum: 550m. Height gain cumulative: 580m. NOTE: all heights and distances are approximate. Reference: Kananaskis Trail Guides by the Dafferns.
(A long read) After twelve years it's time to put a face to the name and come clean on something. That's rarely-seen Chris in the photo, one half of Team BIGDoer, my best friend for almost thirty years and orchestrator of everything you see here. For his entire adult life, he's battled a deep depression.
Mostly it's manageable, but there are extended bouts where it's crippling and his life comes to a grinding halt. Sometimes there are days or weeks where he's lost. Sleep does not come easy at this time and further aggravates the issue. As he ages, it's worsening and seems intent on destroying him from the inside.
If you see a lack of posts here, or ones poorly worded, confusing or simply off, it's from one of these periods.
Through all this, he remains as kind, thoughtful and loving as ever, but is somewhere else. To the family, it's just Chris and accepted as it should be. The kids and grandkids adore him no less. Until today, however, this has been hidden from the outside world, although closer friends and some readers were probably already suspect of his condition. I hope admitting this does not break the site.
He finds clarity when we're out and doing things, hiking or documenting something historic and it's only THE reason this page and our website exists. It's therapy. Then he's a new and passionate person, but the monster as he calls it always returns. The Beer Parlour Project has brought out a side I've never seen and when out in the field he's never been so on point and confident.
This post is not for sympathy but to inform. Just so you know where he is and here's what you can do to help (a last ditch request)...
If you see a missed comma or oddly worded sentence in a post, please be kind. You'll probably see his uncertainty when he's off and be nice there too. But if you like what you see, even if the write up could be presented better, post your encouragement. Say something and say it loud...it's important and will keep him sharing. Help Chris get better by cheering him on.
Other than some photos that are mine, everything else comes from him. All the tiring research and the writing (he admits he's NOT a writer), are his.
Chris puts every dollar he makes into this "project of a lifetime", and it's supplemented by donations from readers who enjoy the content. If you want to help...
Admittedly he was not thrilled with the idea of posting this but agrees it probably should be said, even if it makes him uneasy. He doesn't like appearing in photos either. He's so shy, thinks he looks goofy and hates his husky eyes. I love them and they're windows into a wonderful, complex and quiet, but tortured soul. It breaks my heart when he's in a bad space.
This image comes thanks to photographer Arturo Pianzola and was captured while exploring the historic Riverview Mental Hospital in Coquitlam BC. Chris thought since he was in the area last year, he'd stop by to visit with a grandfather he never really knew, who spent his last years at the facility and is buried on the grounds.
Thanks for listening and your understanding. Hopefully we'll see you next week. Johanna (Connie).
Journey of Natty Gann (Disney 1985) and the same location in the Crowsnest Pass 2014. We're visiting the Pass over the new year, as we often do, and this time we'll be staying at a house that appears (briefly) in the film. How cool, eh? Chris has decided it's time on this visit to reshoot this and other Natty Gann comparison shots we did from ten years ago. Stay tuned!
This scene was shot in historic downtown Coleman and shows the former Holyk's Grocery. It was built in the early 1900s and the store closed in the '60s. _______
Exploring history with Chris & Connie from Off the Beaten Path. Thanks, Johanna (Connie).
From 2015. Rob Pohl and his strange old-style view camera joined us in documenting the Laing House (with permission). Head down to the comments to see an amazing coincidence with something I found inside.
From the Crossley slides, it's an undated view of Towers School, out near Cluny Alberta. It was originally called Swastika School but that's before the word and symbol were ruined by negative connotations. Built 1922. Gone? _______
Exploring history with Chris & Connie from Off the Beaten Path. Thanks, Chris.
The same alley in downtown Calgary's west end, in the 1970s & today. You have to look hard to see the connection! The area was quite run down back then and is in stark contrast to all the shiny condo towers seen present day. Calgary Place West, an apartment block, appears in both images although it's barely a sliver in ours. Check the comments for more info.
Photo credit: James Tworow collection. _______
Exploring history with Chris & Connie from Off the Beaten Path. Thanks, Chris.
Lost highways (2022): a section of old #93 in Southeastern BC. That BIGDoer-mobile is gone now but quite famous and had a following of its own. Old mine roads, cow paths, 4x4ing across fields - no problem and people would recognize us out in remote areas just by this car. _______
Exploring history with Chris & Connie from Off the Beaten Path. Thanks, Chris.
Beautiful places …
Indeed! We are so fortunate to have such wonderful places to explore.
Very pretty, i’ve only driven through Kananaskis in rain but your pictures remind me of what i liked about living in Alaska.
It felt like Alaska that day. Oh it was chilly. Glad you like our work. Please, do drop by often.
Wow!!
Short and simple – we’ll take it!
Lovely photos, so good to see. Even better to see in person, and I have been fortunate to do so several times over the years.
I loved that hike. It was cold and blustery, but that scenery!
We are so lucky!
Lucky indeed!
wow! these are just amazing! I need to share this!
Awesome!
We are lucky to live in such a beautiful place. Ahhhh Canada!
You said it. Damn, we live in a wonderful part of the world.