España Day 12: Cabo Finisterre/Fisterra

The clock’s ticking and our time in Spain running out, but still there’s much to do and see with zero reason to sit still. As we’ve been heard to say all too often, “we’re only on this planet for only so long and man, we’re getting our money’s worth…we’ll catch up on that sleep when we’re gone”. This fine June 2018 day (goodness, long ago!), we take in the “edge of the world” at Cabo (Cape) Finisterre/Fisterra a bit north our home base of O Pindo. Then later we roam the general area with no real goal or purpose. It’s pure bliss out wandering with those who we’ve shared the trip, taking in so many special places that forever will stay in memory. The world’s a fascinating place.

We’ve one more full day go after this, then it’s back home to the old familiar, but for now, we’re on a exploratory mission.

1) Cabo Finisterre (Spanish) or Fisterra (traditional Galician – this region of Spain) was thought to be the most westerly point in the entire world by ancient Romans. To them this was as far as one could go without getting wet feet. In reality there are two chunks of land that extend further out into the ocean, one in Portugal (the most westerly point in continental Europe) and a second a bit to the north of this here one, Cabo Touriñán.

Interestingly, the tip of Finesterre/Fisterra where these photos we’re taken in the not the most westerly part of the cape but instead the most southerly – it bends downward sharply at the end. Here, it’s an obligatory cross at a place rugged and windswept. Fog is the norm here we’re told.

2) A memento for Peregrinos (Pilgrims). There’s a continuation of the El Camino Trail taking one to this very spot. Comparably few go all the way to the ocean here, instead making Santiago de Compostela, a bit inland, their goal (as we did when we hiked the trail). Being a Peregrino is guaranteed to soften your view of the world.

1) At Cabo (Cape) Finisterre/Fisterra.

3) We did the math and O Semaforo is the most western hotel in all continental Spain. It’s the last building on the cape before the lighthouse, perched atop a promontory, cliffs down to the ocean all around. The view, sans fog, must be good.

4) Faro (Lighthouse) de Finisterre/Fisterra. There’s been one here since the 1890s but suspect this one is fairly modern. Just on he far side of the building, the land drops away steeply down to the water.

5) On the very edge, this rocky shelf the goal of tourists and the Peregrino alike. For the latter, well most of them, this is the final destination. It’s all over the toil and sacrifice, here.

6) Words of wisdom and plain graffiti intermixed. The end? No, it’s just begun. A stumble on those rocks could mean disaster – it’s a long drop down. The hiking shoes speaks of a ritual performed here by some Pilgrims. At this point one rids themselves of shoes or even clothing worn on the trail (they are sometimes ceremonially burned) and then you head home, where ever home is, hopefully enlightened or some better copy of yourself.

7) No lighthouse would be complete with out a fog horn. That’s them at the windows. If they went off, no doubt anyone standing close would be made deaf.

8) Occasionally the fog would clear for a moment or two, then just as quick would roll back in. We were witness to lots of folks just sitting on the edge like this. It’s a great place to disconnect and clear your head.

9) You could hear the ocean crashing on rocks down below, but rarely saw it and if then only for a moment or two. It’s easily a couple hundred metre drop. It’s inhospitable down there, rocky, with wave after wave slowing grinding away at the cape.

10) Smile a little more, laugh a little more, and maybe, just maybe, it could happen.

11) On old guy-wire anchor. It blows something fierce here at times.

12) London this way, Toronto that (the only Canadian city mentioned). That ways it’s Rio. Some are hundreds of clicks distant, some thousands.

13) Dolphins can sometimes we spotted in the waters below. The fog lifts briefly, affording us a view of the ocean far below. Then in a heartbeat it was gone.

14) The thicker it gets, the quieter is becomes. At times we’re utterly blind and deaf to the outside world as it envelopes us, our sphere of being only the things that can be seen at hand’s length. And unseen, it’s the sound of ghosts. Then there’s a break and world opens up, reminding us there’s much more out there.

15) View from a high point.

16) If O Semaforo is the most western hotel in Spain (reminder continental Spain), Bar O’Refuxio directly below, is similarly the most western watering hole. Here a beer tanker comes to replenish stocks. Just hook it up intravenous! Estrella Galacia, the local brew, became a favourite while there.

17) It was actually quite chilly and damp, enticing no-one to come picnic.

18) Backtracking to the last town on the cape, Fisterra, a pleasant ocean side community, with lots of historic building clustered around its protected harbour and beach. Here, a random street scene, an ancient church and something noisy.

19) We got to see our fair share of old buildings. Look up and marvel at that rustic stone work.

2) A memento for Peregrinos.

20) Everywhere there’s religious symbolism. They take it seriously here.

21) Mercado=market. In back, an unfinished building. We saw a huge number of these wherever we went in Spain.

22) On the waterfront, an idyllic scene. That emerald green!

23) In the 2000s speculators put in huge numbers of apartment flats across the country and when the market collapsed in 2008 any that were unfinished were simply left abandoned. Here we’re looking at a leftover from the Spanish Property Bubble. And they’re still feeling the aftershocks. I suppose construction could be restarted should things ever recover. These sure were a different twist on the abandonment theme.

24-25) The view from here, just some random street scenes. And to us, something magic.

26) Now south of our home in O Pindo, we’re taking mountain backroads in search of artist Nacho Porto. Connie has a ceramic bowl purchased from the eccentric fellow. Here, an always present hórreo granary – they were literately everywhere in the Galicia Region and we acquired a strange fascination for them. Most are quite old, made of stone (or sometimes brick or wood or some combo therein) and similar in form to this one but maybe varying in length.

27) Although originating from the more southerly Valencia region of Spain, Paella has become known as the national dish (much as Quebec Poutine has likewise come to represent all Canada). It starts with rice and then goes pretty much anywhere from there. Add meat, veg, seafood, whatever. Saffron gives the distinctive yellow colour.

28) Exploring small towns, we found that sometimes the lanes got a little narrow. The rental took a couple dings – thank goodness for insurance! It got so confined one time the mirrors had to be pulled in with the car’s proximity alarm making an awful din.

29) Down some street, old metal. And the rule is, see it, photograph it.

30) Later, wandering O Pindo, these curious water bottles, They’re to keep doggies from relieving themselves there. I guess in the heat, the smell from pee can be quite stinky and can stain too. We mostly saw these “street bottles” in small towns.

31) In this part of Spain you can seemingly take a bus anywhere. There’s a network of routes linking many towns big and small and we’d often see a bus shelter in the most out of the way places. The “must photograph” rule with old metal applies to buses too. It’s our thing.

32) O Pindo Harbour, right out of a post card. O Pindo está en nuestros corazones.

33) Earlier we saw some ruins from the highway, out on what we call Point O Pindo. And wouldn’t you know it, there’s a marked hiking trail leading right to them. The view back about half way in.

34) Cape Finesterre/Fisterra, where we visited earlier in day, there in back. In between, Isla Lobeira Grande. Only grasses and hedges are able to cling to life here.

35) Not sure what the building was here, but they’re the ones we saw from the highway. It’s right on the ocean, suggesting some connection to those waters. A fishery? We asked around and came up empty.

3) O Semaforo, the most westerly.

36) Across the bay, another little seafront village. We’re not sure the name, with Google, Bing and other maps all contradicting each other. Nameless is what it is. White line running down the hill in back is a water conduit from a dam further up.

37) This is what time and salt water will do to metal.

38) What a pleasant view. A creeping plant has taken over the old walls of the ruins. Note the wind turbines in the ridgetop in back.

39) Looking south, our temporary home is just left of that group of dwellings, off frame, left of the old lighthouse. Mountains are small but incredibly rugged, with lots of boulders and rock outcroppings and as we found by accident sinkholes too (fell in one), sometimes covered by or lined with prickly plants. This makes off-trail travel near impossible.

40) Evening time is beer time. Which way to a cold one? O Pindo has a few cafe/bars.

41) Seems it’s wash day.

42) They say we don’t include enough pictures of ourselves. Well here you go – Chris says hi. We’re actually quite shy and believe its more about the subject than us. No Instagram narcissist here, even if the title of this website makes mention of us, and so once in a while we reluctantly make an appearance to satisfy the curiosity. Yes, we have a face, even if on this end we feel it’s undeserving of any attention. And we always look awkward. But hey…

A few Estrella Galicias and it’s home time. Sleep comes easy when you’re active and exploring and having a ball. Tomorrow, the last full day, we along with our most gracious hosts, Chris’ Sister and Brother-in-law, Katrina and Grant, has us paying a visit to Northern Portugal. Stay tuned for that one.

They’re saying…

Keep the articles coming. I might not comment on every one I read, which is all of them, but I always find them interesting. I have learned a lot though your articles. Eric May.

More Spain…
Off The Beaten Path en España – touching down in Spain.
España Day 1 – Wandering Madrid – getting to know the city.
España Day 2 – Toledo Cathedral – the most impressive yet.
España Day 3 – Hello Astorga – the last stop before the El Camino.
España Day 4 – Scruffy Peregrino – feet in motion.
España Day 5: Up & Over – lovin’ Spain.
España Day 6: Buen Camino – the “Good Way”.
España Day 7: Lost & Loving It – as though in a dream.
España Day 8: Walking the Cows – a magical day.
España Day 9-10: Santiago! – one things ends, another soon to begin.
España Day 10: Evening in O Pindo – our base for a few days.
España Day 11: Porto de Quilmas – a seaside village down the road.
España Day 13: A Taste of Portugal – one final day.

If you wish more information on what you’ve seen here, by all means contact us!

Date of Adventure: June, 2018.
Location: Cabo (Cape) Finisterre/Fisterra, Fisterra (town) & O Pindo, Galicia Region, A Coruña Province, Spain.
Article references and thanks: Grant & Katrina LaRocque.

4) At the edge of the earth.

5) A few more steps and it’d be ocean.

6) Or beginning?

7) You’d not want to be standing there if…

8) A place to reflect.

9) The ocean is heard but little seen.

10) May peace prevail…

11) Old metal pitted by time and elements.

12) London this way, Rio that.

13) Sometimes seen in the waters below.

14) Comes a silence.

15) From the high point.

16) Beer tanker!

17) A cold blustery day.

18) The streets of Fisterra.

19) Old buildings all around.

20) And religious symbolism.

21) Right, modern abandonment.

22) And waters a stunning shade of emerald.

23) A leftover from the Spanish Property Bubble.

24) Wash day!

25) Just some random street.

26) In search of Nacho Porto.

27) Considered the national dish.

28) Narrow lanes would take a toll.

29) See old metal, photograph old metal.

30) So they don’t pee.

31) The rule for buses is the same as old metal.

32) About to start a short hike in O Pindo.

33) On the trail out to Point O Pindo.

34) Cape Finesterre/Fisterra back there.

35) Old ruins by the sea.

36) A rocky coast.

37) Weather beaten.

38) Across the bay…

39) Mountains are small but rugged.

40) A cold one calls.

41) Wash day!

42) Here you go…