Stettler, After Hours

There’s nothing better for the body and soul than an evening stroll. What a great way to relax and unwind. We do it at home and when on the road. Seriously, it’s how we roll. Naturally, we often bring a camera to try and capture the peace and tranquility that only the end of day can bring. That special light and that rare unexplainable vibe is fleeting, often spectacular and the experience magic. We’re easily sold on stuff like this. As they say, it’s the little things.

Here’s just such an outing, a walk about Stettler Alberta (pop 6k) before they rolled up the streets. It’s no deep study of something historic but carefree captures of things some might see as everyday that when viewed in the right light becomes extraordinary. With the sun’s last rays, it’s no cars, no people, just weirdos with cameras. With not a soul about, here we practised our “social distancing” before it was cool. The town is ours for the taking.

1) Here’s a well travelled caboose. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the early 1970s, #434371 roamed the country before later finding work with the E&N Railway (Esquimalt & Nanaimo, once a CPR subsidiary) on Vancouver Island. Later the Mackenzie Northern acquired it, which operated a line in far Northern Alberta and the southern Northwest Territories (the only railway in the NWT). This line today is a Canadian National Railways property (and was before the MN too).

Notice is has both ENR and MN markings. We found it along the Alberta Prairie Railway Excursions “freight” line and it appears it had not moved in some time. We understand it may soon be repatriated back to the Island (or may already be there). It was donated to a museum group there. Correction 2023: we’re not sure what happened but it has since found its way to the Historic Hanna (AB) Roundhouse instead. See: Hanna Roundhouse Revisited.

2) Here’s Bloke’s. You can smell the bread baking already. Nothing, and we mean not a single thing beats that smell. The building has an interesting zig-zag (sawtoth) roof line. So many power lines! As photographers were taught to loath them.

3) Here’s the Jewel, operating here since the 1950s and closed for a time in the 2010s before new owners stepped in. Fact: it’s not easy operating a small town theatre. While it’s closed temporarily due to the present day Covid nightmare, the evening of our visit in 2019 it was business as usual. Now playing“Secret Life of Pets 2”. No one’s about, but when it let out, there was a briefly flurry of activity on the otherwise quiet streets. The traffic lights in back have nothing to do.

4) In the soft light of evening, some buildings new, some buildings old. And silence, dead calm silence.

5) Wares Jewellers is no more, but their iconic sign remains, a monument to a business that for close to seventy years served the needs of the town. Today there’s a pharmacy here. And the Club Cafe. Is there a town in the prairie provinces that doesn’t have a similar eatery? You know serving Chinese and Canadian Cuisine (just what is that? Bannock? Poutine?). And there’s the weekend buffet. Mmmmm, that ooey gooey red sauce! In back, the wondrous glow of neon.

6) Channelling the Omega Man. You know, it’s that 1970s post-apocalypse film, one man battling an army of mutants? The titular character (played by Charlton bloody Heston) is a survivor of a global pandemic. Pan – dem – ic? Oh ****, this is getting real.

7) The Royal Hotel, Pub, Liquor Store and Laundry. There’s all the makings of a good weekend. While not architecturally a gem, it’s got those old school cues and that means we’re a fan.

8) Here’s the Stettler Hotel from 1948, replacing an older hotel (the National) which stood here before it burned down. It comes complete with some vintage neon signage – win! Next time we’re in the area, we’re going to have to pay it a visit inside. I guess there’s a vintage mural on the far side of the building, which in true bone-head fashion, we missed. Here’s a cool T&N comparison: Stettler Alberta Then & Now: Stettler Hotel.

9) Down by the tracks is where we’re at our most comfortable. Here’s a hand pump close to the Alberta Prairie Railway Excursions base of operations. That’s the next day’s tour train in back (which we rode). Interestingly Stettler was served by two railways (CNR and CPR). The CPR still visits and is the outside connection to the world, where as all track in town, to the east and those heading south to Big Valley now belongs to the APR. To help underwrite the tour operation they also move some freight.

10) In back, the Alberta Prairie Railway Excursion’s station and the historic Parrish & Heimbecker grain elevator, which you can tour. We’ve never been inside, but hope to pay it a visit sometime. It’s close to a hundred years old and was last used in the early 2000s, before being preserved. The original Stettler Station now sits at the local museum with the current structure seen being a reproduction. The light fades.

11) Here’s #1118, a late 1950s built General Motors Diesel Division GMD1 branch line locomotive. Original owned by Canadian National Railways, it’s the usual power for the APR’s tour run to Big Valley. Sometimes a steamer is used but it’s down with a cold. The team would get to know #1118 well…see: Alberta Prairie Railway Tours Ride Along (they’ll be back in biz once Covid is behind us). Got to hang with Jimmy, while Connie paroled the rest of the train. This was shot from the public platform at the station.

12) There’s this strange fascination here with small camping trailers. It can’t be explained. Boler and their kin are the drug of choice, but in lieu of that, any old slab-side will do. As long as it’s small. An addiction satisfied.

13-14) We always stay at “mom & pop” motels/hotels. In rotation this day, it’s the Plains Motor Inn. Pleasant place, budget friendly, so just the stuff we needed. On leaving the last day, they were heard to shout “Get out and don’t come back!” What the? Not sure what that was about. It was only a small party…and I mean that TV needed replacing anyway. Neon for the win.

15) The next evening, the 1918 AGT building. This was the local exchange for Alberta Government Telephones, this firm later morphing into present day Telus. We come across “exchange” buildings such as this from time to time mostly in smaller towns (there’s even one in Calgary though). Not sure its present use. We somehow missed this one the previous walk.

And the next day it’s homeward bound. What a bummer. But we’ll be back…I’m sure we will. Till then it’s found memories of riding the train, exploring some cool steam locomotives (stay tuned) and serene times wandering town after everyone’s gone home. We love these quietest moments.

Maybe we’ll bump into you on our next small town walk-about. If we all survive. Looking forward to it!

They’re saying…

”Always a good read and good pictures capturing our lost history” Romany Stew .

Another shot in town…
Stettler Then & Now: Heartland(er) Motel.

More like this..
Wandering Cranbrook – one quiet evening.
Wandering Historic Downtown Coleman – in the company of ghosts.
Wandering Beiseker – with no one about.
Wandering Shaunavon – in the land of living skies!

If you wish more information on what you’ve seen here, by all means contact us!

Date of Adventure: June, 2019.
Location: Stettler, AB.
Article references and thanks: Canadian Trackside Guides, Alberta Prairie Railway Excursions, Town of Stettler.

1) Headed back to the Island.

2) Bloke’s Bakery Bakes Better.

3) Now playing…

4) In the soft light of evening.

5) There’s a “Club” type eatery in many small towns.

6) No cars, no people.

7) The “Royal”.

8) Neon rules!

9) Down by the tracks…

10) In back, the restored “P&H” towers over all.

11) Soon we’d get to know #1118 well.

12) It’s no Boler, but will do.

13) The Plains, our home for the weekend.

14) They said: “Don’t come back!”

15) The AGT building from 1918.